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Lemon plus herbs plus pasta = delicious

Recipe: Mellow citrus brightens up a winter dinner

Lemony pasta
It's pasta that's almost soup, and it's very lemony. (Photos: Kathy Morrison)
Honoring Meyer lemon season means more than baking, as fun as that is. I got it into my head the other day that I wanted to cook something with lemons and pasta, and started digging around for ideas.
A lot of the recipes I found use heavy cream as a base for the sauce, but that would upstage a Meyer, which is much less tart than Eureka or Lisbon lemons.
This pasta dish, adapted from a New York Times recipe, has broth and a mix of herbs for the sauce base, along with the lemon zest and juice. The lemon flavor shines through beautifully.
As accompaniment, I made a simple green salad topped with a few pieces of shrimp that were quickly sautéed in lemon juice and olive oil. It made a full meal for two of us, with leftovers of the pasta, but the protein alongside is completely optional. Serve the pasta in big bowls, with soup spoons to scoop up the noodles and broth. It's not quite soup, though it could be if you doubled the broth.
Herbs, two lemons, noodles and cheese
Just a few ingredients drive the flavors in this dish.
Pasta with Meyer lemon and herbs
Serves 2 to 4

Ingredients:
2 to 3 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth (try to avoid a vegetable broth that's tomato-y)
1 or 2 garlic cloves, peeled and slightly smashed
Grated zest of 2 small Meyer lemons, or 1 large
1 tablespoon Meyer lemon juice, plus more to taste
Coarse sea salt or kosher salt
8 ounces short pasta, or pappardelle broken into pieces, or "no-yolk" noodles (my package called them "dumplings")
3 tablespoons chopped mint leaves
2 tablespoons chopped marjoram leaves
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed, or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh fennel fronds or tarragon
Extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly coarse-ground black pepper
Mild cheese for grating or crumbling: Mexican cojita, Parmesan or feta
Lemon zest in a red spoon
Is this enough zest? Probably, but it doesn't hurt to have
a little extra, maybe to sprinkle on the finished dish.
Instructions:
Pour the broth into a small saucepan. Add the garlic clove(s) and bring broth to a boil. Over medium-high heat, reduce the broth to about half.
Remove the garlic, chop it and set it aside. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the lemon zest and juice. Season to taste -- aim for a well-seasoned broth, since this is the sauce base. Keep the broth warm over very low heat.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to boil. Salt the water well and add the pasta. After 5 minutes, scoop out a 1/2 cup or so of pasta water and set it aside. Cook the pasta until al dente -- this was just 5 minutes anyway for my noodles.
Drain the pasta, shake it, then return it to the pot. Put the pot over low heat and add the lemony broth. Stir in the chopped garlic, the mint, marjoram and fennel seeds (or chopped fennel fronds or tarragon), and add just a touch of olive oil. The pasta should be well coated and lemony -- it will soak up some of the broth in the process.
Taste and add some freshly ground black pepper and, if desired, more lemon juice and salt.
Ladle the pasta, with some of the broth, into warmed bowls. Grate or crumble some cheese (but not too much) over the top, sprinkle with a bit more olive oil and grind additional black pepper as a final touch.
Serve with slices of warmed baguette.

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Garden checklist for week of May 31

Remember to water early. No more rain is in the immediate forecast.

* It’s not too late to transplant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or other summer favorites. Make sure they stay hydrated.

* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias.

* It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth