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Spring arrives early for roses, pruned or not



Lady Hamilton, a David Austin rose, still had blooms and foliage
before pruning Jan. 23. (Photos: Debbie Arrington)
Maintenance now means healthier plants later



Buds are breaking out all over.

Due to springlike temperatures and moist soil, roses are thinking they’ve overslept – if they went dormant at all. Bushes are already pushing out new growth. Some are still in bloom, flowering off last year’s canes.

What’s a procrastinating gardener to do? Stop stalling and prune.

Snip off those winter flowers; bring them inside for a bouquet or try to root the cuttings. Strip off any remaining leaves (even if they look healthy). Trim out any dead or diseased wood as well as crossing branches. This necessary winter maintenance will make your roses much happier and healthier in the months to come.

This winter in Sacramento, the lack of really cold nights allowed many roses to hold onto their leaves. Instead of resting, these bushes went right into next year’s growth cycle, sprouting new stems at the end of last year’s canes. The result is a mass of crisscrossing canes that clog air circulation in the middle of the bush.

Good air circulation is key to healthy roses without chemical spraying. It allows air to flow around leaves, drying off excess moisture and keeping fungal diseases away.

Why remove old foliage? Although remaining leaves may look healthy, they often harbor fungal spores for powdery mildew, rust, blackspot and other diseases. When temperatures reach the mid-70s, those fungal diseases flare up rapidly and infect new foliage.

This is what bud break looks like.
Besides improving the bush’s health, pruning brings flowers down to a height where they can be most enjoyed.  If not pruned, rose bushes tend to add as much new growth on top of the old growth as they did the year before. Spring blooms will be 7 or 8 feet off the ground, too tall to stop and smell.

Sacramento’s rose pruning season traditionally wraps up in February, before March weather prompts rapid growth. But with coming days forecast in the 70s, roses already feel it’s time for spring break – bud break, that is. And it’s still January.

Bud eyes are the growth points along rose canes. They’re found just above where a leaf was attached (or may still be hanging on). “Bud break” refers to the rapid development of that bud; it sprouts leaves and stem, eventually developing a flower at the end of that stem.

Pruning is much easier before those buds break and grow into a lot of new stems.

Pruning also is easier if a bush goes dormant, dropping its leaves and resting. Without foliage, the bud eyes are easier to spot.

How do you prune a bush still covered with leaves? Start by taking it down to height, but not too short. For hybrid teas in a garden setting, that’s about 3 feet.  (Yes, that seems tall, but the taller bush will reach its blooming height sooner.)

Then, take out the dead or diseased canes as well as crossing canes. After that, prune as much or as little as desired.

Here's the same Lady Hamilton rose after pruning.
The last step: Remove remaining leaves. With leather gloves, strip the leaves off, lightly running your glove down the stem starting from the tip. Or snip the leaflets off with pruning shears.

It may seem like a lot of extra work, but the results will be beautiful. Expect the first blooms in six to eight weeks.

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Garden checklist for week of April 12

After these storms pass, get to work on spring clean-up.

* Weed, weed, weed! Take advantage of soft soil and pull them before they go to seed.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, radishes and squash.

* Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias.

* Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant heat-resistant lettuce seedlings.

* Feed roses and other spring-blooming shrubs.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Feed citrus trees with a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds. Avoid "volcano mulching" -- be sure to keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks or the stems of shrubs. This prevents rot and disease.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth