Tips on summer rose care for more beautiful blooms
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| Betty Boop rose puts on a show all summer. With a little care, roses can survive the heat. (Photos: Debbie Arrington) |
How do you grow beautiful roses in the heat of summer? Keep an eye on your bushes and make them comfortable.
After the first (or second) flush of spring bloom, roses need deep and consistent irrigation. They appreciate a weekly soaking and a blanket of cooling organic mulch. As long as they have water, roses can recover from all sorts of issues and bloom some more.
To prompt new flowers, cut off the old ones. This dead-heading spurs fresh growth.
Planning a big day in your garden? For an impressive late-summer or early fall rose display, cut back spent blooms and fertilize bushes a balanced rose fertilizer six to eight weeks before your target date. Remember to water deeply before feeding.
If some bushes look stressed, check your irrigation. A mature hybrid tea rose needs about 5 gallons a week, about the same as a tomato plant. If your bushes are on drip irrigation, adjust water flow to the emitters. Make sure the plant is receiving water on all sides and not just one place.
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| Day Breaker floribunda, a heavy summer bloomer, is very fungal-disease resistant. |
Too much moisture can cause issues, too. A wet and mild spring led to rampant fungal diseases with lots of powdery mildew and black spot.
These problems will soon disappear. Temperatures above 95 degrees will generally wipe out those fungal issues, allowing the bush time to grow new leaves and recover during the hot days to come.
Bushes will drop dead or infected leaves; remember to pick them up. Otherwise, the spores will jump back up on the bush when high temperatures cool down to the 70s in fall. (Also pick up fallen petals; they may contain fungal spores, too.)
If your bushes were plagued by fungal disease, consider swapping out the mulch for fresh wood chips or shredded bark. Likely, the mulch will be full of fungi, too.
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| Marilyn Monroe hybrid tea can take heat. |
In his summer tips, master rosarian Baldo Villegas, Sacramento’s Bug Man, advices gardeners to look out for one rose pest in particular: Spider mites.
These little pests (a tiny spider cousin) can cover foliage with webs. They suck the life out of leaves and eventually can defoliate the bush. According to UC master gardeners, the individual spider mite looks like a moving dot; it’s less than 1/20th of an inch in length.
But under hot and dry conditions, spider mites can multiply quickly, almost smothering plants with their webs in the process.
Water-stressed bushes are the most likely to be attacked and damaged by spider mites. They ride the breeze to infect other plants.
Be careful when using pesticides against spider mites; they may actually be helping the mites by eliminating their natural predators.
“Broad-spectrum insecticide treatments for other pests frequently cause mite outbreaks, so avoid these pesticides when possible,” advises the UC integrated pest management guidelines.
An outbreak can usually be headed off by observation.
“Monitor for the presence of spider mites by checking for discolored leaves and webbing on the undersides,” Villegas advices on his SactoRose.org website. “Discourage spider mites by spraying the undersides of leaves with a water wand.”
What if they’re really bad? “For severe infestations, apply pesticides containing miticides or spray the roses with insecticidal soap,” Villegas said. “But make sure that the spray is directed to the undersides of the leaves. DO NOT APPLY HORTICULTURAL OILS! “
Those oils can fry foliage in hot weather. Never apply any pesticides (even soap) when temperatures are above 90 degrees or in windy conditions. For best results, apply sprays in the morning during calm conditions.
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| Gemini, a hybrid tea, turns redder when temperatures climb. |
Villegas, a retired state entomologist, has another important tip: Take notes. That way, you’ll remember when you did and when, and how it worked.
“Write down in a calendar when any pests made their first appearance and what action was taken,” Villegas said. “Also, evaluate the spring bloom performance of your rose bushes!”
That way, you’ll remember what bloomed when and how much, as well as which plants suffered the most mildew.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of April 19
After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!
* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.
* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.
* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.
* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.
* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.
* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.
* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.
* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth