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What's eating your seedlings? Could be bagrada bugs

Colorful stink bug cousin can devastate young leafy greens


Bagrada bugs
Female, left, and male bagrada bugs. The pests have been
taking hold in California since 2008. (Photos courtesy UC IPM)






What’s eating your cabbage and broccoli seedlings? According to several Sacramento accounts, it may be bagrada bugs.

These stink bug cousins usually are most active in February and March when wild mustard (their favorite food) is rampant across the Central Valley. But a wave of recent bagrada bug sightings has been reported in local community gardens as well as backyard vegetable beds.

Size comparisons, from left: Lady beetle, bagrada bug,
stink bug, harlequin bug.

Also known as the “painted bug,” the bagrada bug ( Bagrada hilaris ) looks similar to the harlequin bug but is smaller. Less than 1/4-inch long, the bagrada bug is black with orange and white markings; harlequins have no white markings. According to the UC Cooperative Extension master gardeners, the harlequin is three times the size of a bagrada bug.

Bagrada bugs go after young seedlings and leafy greens. That’s why they can be particularly devastating now, when gardeners are setting out cool-season transplants.

According to the master gardeners, bagrada bugs tend to attack cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, turnip and mustard greens. This bug also attacks related cruciferous crops such as radish and arugula. Ornamental landscape plants such as alyssum, candytuft, nasturtiums, rockcress, stock and wallflower can be infested.

Bagrada bugs
Bagrada nymphs and adults.

Under mild conditions, bagrada bugs can have several generations in one growing season. Their nymphs are bright red-orange and black, and often mistaken for lady beetles. In Southern California, they tend to peak in late summer and early fall (as in right now).

An invasive insect native to Africa, bagrada bugs were first discovered in California in 2008. They got a foothold in Los Angeles before spreading throughout Southern California. By 2013, they were found in Fresno and Monterey. Now they’re established in Sacramento, too.

They love mustard but will eat other kinds of leafy greens, too. Like other stink bugs, they jab their needlelike mouthpart into their food and suck away. Their damage looks like a little starburst on the leaf surface.

Like other invasive stink bugs, they have few if any natural enemies; birds don’t like to eat them. Pesticides aren’t affect on them either.

Besides wild mustard, their favorite host plant is sweet alyssum. That flower can attract masses of these bugs; don’t companion plant alyssum with your cabbage or broccoli.

But sweet alyssum can be used as a lure to bagrada bug death. Get a pyramid-shaped stink bug trap (such as the Rescue-brand stink bug trap), but substitute a piece of alyssum for the bait. (Bagrada bugs won’t respond to other stink bugs’ bait.)

Another method of control suggested by the master gardeners: A sheet of paper and a handheld vacuum. Place the paper under a plant suspected of bagrada bug invasion and gently shake the plant. The bugs will fall out onto the paper. Then, vacuum them up.

In the meantime, protect young seedlings with individual covers or hot caps.

For more on bagrada bugs and controls:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74166.html

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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth