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Lady beetles working hard in our gardens, thank goodness

Aphids the meal of choice for the beloved beneficial insect


Lady beetles on chard
They dropped into Club Chard for a feast: Three of about a dozen sevenspotted lady beetles ( Coccinella septempunctata ) were dining on aphids in my community garden plot. (Photos: Kathy Morrison)

If there were a  "Trending Topics" list among gardeners right now, "Lady Beetles" (aka ladybugs) would be at the top.

The colorful and beloved insect is back in our gardens in a big way this spring,  working hard for us by doing what comes naturally: Eating aphids.

Almost every conversation I've had lately with a fellow gardener has included a comment about "so many ladybugs!" It happened again Wednesday during the Open Garden at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center, as the bright little beetles were easily seen among the fronds of the white yarrow ( Achillea millefolium ) that I was trimming. Visitors to the Herb Garden area spotted lady beetles on the Scarlet Unique geranium ( Pelargonium fulgidum ) and other plants nearby. Master gardeners had also seen quite a few in the orchard trees the previous week.

So, hurray for Mother Nature's beneficial predators!

But why so many this year? Are there more aphids attracting more lady beetles? Or are the conditions just right for the beneficials this year? Or are we simply more aware of the importance of biological controls?

It might be a combination of those factors, but cold does kill aphids, and we didn't have much cold this past winter. (Temperatures above 90 degrees also kill them, which is why aphids are less of a problem  here during summer.) Moderate temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees are their ideal climate. More aphids available means more food for more lady beetles, who overwinter in protected areas.

What if your garden is full of aphids but hasn't yet become a home for lady beetles? Ideally, the garden should include plants that entice beneficials with nectar and habitat, then encourage them to stick around. Yarrow is a good one for spring, along with alyssum, lobelia, thyme, cornflower, calendula, geraniums and marigolds. Here's an excellent list of plants for all beneficials .

See that alligator-looking insect in the lower middle of the photo? That's
a lady beetle larva, aka voracious teenager. They eat even more
aphids than the adults do.

My community garden plot contains flowering plants, though the most popular plant this spring has been the chard plant, which attracted hordes of aphids -- and subsequently became Club Chard for a bunch of sevenspotted lady beetle adults and larvae (the  teenagers of the lady beetle family).

An easy way to fight aphids is to blast them off the plant with a strong spray of water. (Tip: Hold your free hand behind tender rosebuds to avoid blasting the buds off as well.) However, some gardeners try to buy containers of lady beetles and deposit them in the garden -- and then are mad when the insects fly off.  Is this a commercial scam?

Well, no, but there are better and worse ways to handle the release of lady beetles. A blog post by UCANR's Mary Louise Flint tackles this question:  "University of California research has demonstrated that lady beetle releases can effectively control aphids in a limited landscape or garden area if properly handled and applied in sufficient numbers."  Note the "limited" and the "if," and take a look at the full blog post to learn how it can be done.

Here's another thing about those commercial lady beetles: They're not residents of the Central Valley flatlands. As Flint notes, "Lady beetles sold at nurseries for aphid control are convergent lady beetles, named for the converging white marks on its thorax. Suppliers collect beetles from large overwintering aggregations in California's foothills and mountains. Many other species of lady beetles occur naturally in California landscapes but don't aggregate in the mountains and aren't sold commercially."

And, psst, don't buy lady beetles that haven't been refrigerated at the store. Those room-temperature insects are active and climbing all over each other, resulting in a lot of casualties.

Even under the best circumstances, expect purchased lady beetles to fly away after a few days. Their mission accomplished, they're off to find more caches of yummy aphids. Or maybe just heading home.

(For more on lady beetles, check out this detailed and illustrated page from the UC Integrated Pest Management.)

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Garden checklist for week of April 12

After these storms pass, get to work on spring clean-up.

* Weed, weed, weed! Take advantage of soft soil and pull them before they go to seed.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, radishes and squash.

* Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias.

* Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant heat-resistant lettuce seedlings.

* Feed roses and other spring-blooming shrubs.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Feed citrus trees with a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds. Avoid "volcano mulching" -- be sure to keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks or the stems of shrubs. This prevents rot and disease.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth