Learning what went wrong will help next year
Gardening knowledge builds from year to year. Sometimes a poor year will teach the gardener more than a successful year. (And in both cases, the results may have been despite the gardener's efforts, not because of them.)
If your 2021 tomato plants already are history, pulled out in disgust because they produced all of two tomatoes this year, maybe a quick look back will prevent history from repeating itself in the vegetable garden.
Let's tackle a few questions:
What was planted?
Anyone in the Sacramento area who envisions a garden full of Brandywine tomatoes is going to be sorely disappointed. Late-season heirlooms are notoriously finicky under the best circumstances, and our intense heat will shut them down like a kill switch on an engine. Go for early to mid-season hybrids and at least one regular-size cherry tomato, and you'll have a full harvest basket in July and August.
Where were they planted?
A container-planted tomato is going to have a tough life, and produce less, unless it was specifically bred to grow in pots. The ones with "Patio" in the title have done well, in my experience, and the "Bush" varieties do OK. Anything else? Well, good luck, but don't expect much. (This is coming from a woman with four full-size tomato plants crammed into grow pots this year. One day I'm going to learn.)
Another location issue is too much shade. Some afternoon shade is OK: With that frying summer sun of ours, "full sun" shouldn't be the same as "full sunlight." But too much shade will shut down tomatoes and other summer vegetables. They're summer vegetables for a reason.
When were the tomatoes planted?
This may be the most important question, given our changing climate. I used to plant at the end of April, and even did so this year because of work demands: One plant went in on April 28, our "Unofficial Tomato Planting Day" (and Fred Hoffman's birthday). The rest of my plants went in at various points in May, with the final in-ground tomato planted May 23.
Then, on Memorial Day, May 31, the temperature hit 106 degrees. Now, how are young tomato plants supposed to survive that? They struggle, they don't produce flowers. The temps then drop, the plants start to recover, and Boom! another heat wave hits. Pollen dries up, flowers drop off and tomatoes go dormant when it's too hot, as a survival technique. You get on a rollercoaster of those heat spikes during the summer, and the dream of a tomato harvest evaporates.
Plant earlier, and then fully expect high heat by early June. If the triple digits don't happen, no worries.
We're also going to have to factor in fire season as a regular part of our summer planning, I fear. Smoke and other air pollutants from wildfires can cause reduced fruit set, too.
How often and how much were they watered?
Early on, tomato plants need water every other day or so until they're established. Then back off the water, to every third day, and when mature, deeply every fourth or fifth day. With enough mulch, the soil won't completely dry out, and the tomato plants will send down nice deep roots. Last year, I pulled one plant out at the end of the season that had at least 6 feet of roots, and probably more that I didn't see. Tomatoes need enough water, but not every day.What fertilizer if any did they receive?
This is another important issue for tomatoes. Too much nitrogen, either already in the soil or in fertilizer, produces a gorgeous green plant but not necessarily fruit. Look at it this way: The "teenage" plant is sucking up nitrogen lying around, having fun growing a lot of green stuff. But at some point you want it to reproduce (flower and make tomato babies). But if you're giving it stuff to continue being a teenager, well, heck. it will oblige you. So save the extra nitrogen for after the plant has set fruit.Comments
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of April 19
After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!
* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.
* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.
* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.
* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.
* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.
* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.
* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.
* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth