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How to combat ants when they come indoors

Skip pesticides and grab a soapy sponge (and caulk)

Use these tools to fight ants without pesticides: caulk to block entrance sites and a soapy sponge or glass cleaner to disrupt ant scent trails.

Use these tools to fight ants without pesticides: caulk to block entrance sites and a soapy sponge or glass cleaner to disrupt ant scent trails. Kathy Morrison

With soggy soil and cold weather come unwanted home invaders – ants.

Can you blame them? They’re looking for somewhere warm and dry. They’re also searching for food; those scout ants have literally thousands of mouths to feed back in their colonies.

Since our recent storm waterlogged the path outside our kitchen, I’ve been fighting these clever little devils in their attempts to relocate indoors. First, a few showed up near the back door. Then, a couple crawled across the counter. More wandered around my spice cabinet. All were dispatched quickly with a soapy sponge.

The real trouble came overnight. They apparently crawled down the stove vent inside a pantry cabinet and discovered a bonanza – an unsealed box of crackers. When I opened the cabinet in the morning to get some cereal, I screamed. Ants seemed to be everywhere (although the cracker box was the only one that they had penetrated).

The battle is now truly on.

The advice from the University of California Integrated Pest Management program: Keep calm and grab some caulk.

Spraying pesticides inside the home will not prevent more ants from entering, says the UCIPM website. Instead, you need to figure out where they’re getting in and block those holes. It could be a small space around a door, a little crack under a window or a small gap around a pipe or vent. Follow the ants; they’ll eventually show you where.

Focus efforts on keeping ants out of the house,” instructs the UC experts. “Follow good sanitation practices to make your home less attractive to ants.”

Close those would-be ant entries with caulk or other means. (Petroleum jelly can work as a temporary deterrent; they can’t stand sticky stuff.)

Remove what’s attracting the invaders to that area. Most ants go for sweets (cookies, candy, fruit or the classic ant nirvana, a sugar bowl). Others prefer cereals, crackers, pet food or other grain-based products. All ants seem to go for garbage.

Clean up any crumbs or sticky spills. Wipe surfaces with a soapy sponge or spray with window cleaner. That disrupts ant scent trails, the method ants use to communicate where to go.

Ant bait situated near those would-be entry points can help. (Ants carry the poison back to their nests.) But baits can take a week or more before they start taking effect. (The scouts have to find it, then introduce it to their nest.)

Ant control takes patience and persistence, sort of like the ants themselves.

To better tackle these itty-bitty intruders, get to know ants a little better. Not all ants are the same.

Argentine ants – which are dull brown and about 1/8-inch long – love sugar and oilThe most common invader, they make straight lines as they follow the leader to their quarry. Their colonies can number in the millions.

According to the UCIPM, Argentine ants “travel rapidly in distinctive trails along sidewalks, up sides of buildings, along branches of trees and shrubs, along baseboards, and under edges of carpets.”

My invaders were most likely Odorous house ants; they look similar to their Argentine cousins, except they’re darker – dark brown or shiny black – and they stink when crushed (hence the name). They also tend to wander around instead of traveling in straight lines.

The UCIPM ant page includes links to information on common household ants and helpful videos (including what to do in an ant emergency). Find it herehttps://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/invertebrates/links.ants.html

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Garden checklist for week of Feb. 8

Dodge those raindrops and get things done! Your garden needs you.

* Start your spring (and summer) garden. Transplant or direct-seed several flowers, including snapdragon, candytuft, lilies, astilbe, larkspur, Shasta and painted daisies, stocks, bleeding heart and coral bells.

* In the vegetable garden, plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers, and strawberry and rhubarb roots. Transplant cabbage and its close cousins – broccoli, kale and Brussels sprouts – as well as lettuce (both loose leaf and head).

* Indoors, start peppers, tomatoes and eggplant from seed.

* Plant artichokes, asparagus and horseradish from root divisions. Plant potatoes from tubers and onions from sets (small bulbs). The onions will sprout quickly and can be used as green onions in March.

* From seed, plant beets, chard, lettuce, mustard, peas, radishes and turnips.

* Annuals are showing up in nurseries, but wait until the weather warms up a bit before planting. Instead, set out flowering perennials such as columbine and delphinium.

* Plant summer-flowering bulbs including cannas, calla lilies and gladiolus.

* This is the last chance to spray fruit trees before they bloom. Treat peach and nectarine trees with copper-based fungicide. Spray apricot trees at bud swell to prevent brown rot. Apply horticultural oil to control scale, mites and aphids on fruit trees soon after a rain. But remember: Oils need at least 24 hours to dry to be effective. Don’t spray during foggy weather or when rain is forecast.

* Feed spring-blooming shrubs and fall-planted perennials with slow-release fertilizer. Feed mature trees and shrubs after spring growth starts.

* Remove aphids from blooming bulbs with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap.

* Fertilize strawberries and asparagus.

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Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

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Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

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Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

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Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth