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How to combat ants when they come indoors

Skip pesticides and grab a soapy sponge (and caulk)

Use these tools to fight ants without pesticides: caulk to block entrance sites and a soapy sponge or glass cleaner to disrupt ant scent trails.

Use these tools to fight ants without pesticides: caulk to block entrance sites and a soapy sponge or glass cleaner to disrupt ant scent trails. Kathy Morrison

With soggy soil and cold weather come unwanted home invaders – ants.

Can you blame them? They’re looking for somewhere warm and dry. They’re also searching for food; those scout ants have literally thousands of mouths to feed back in their colonies.

Since our recent storm waterlogged the path outside our kitchen, I’ve been fighting these clever little devils in their attempts to relocate indoors. First, a few showed up near the back door. Then, a couple crawled across the counter. More wandered around my spice cabinet. All were dispatched quickly with a soapy sponge.

The real trouble came overnight. They apparently crawled down the stove vent inside a pantry cabinet and discovered a bonanza – an unsealed box of crackers. When I opened the cabinet in the morning to get some cereal, I screamed. Ants seemed to be everywhere (although the cracker box was the only one that they had penetrated).

The battle is now truly on.

The advice from the University of California Integrated Pest Management program: Keep calm and grab some caulk.

Spraying pesticides inside the home will not prevent more ants from entering, says the UCIPM website. Instead, you need to figure out where they’re getting in and block those holes. It could be a small space around a door, a little crack under a window or a small gap around a pipe or vent. Follow the ants; they’ll eventually show you where.

Focus efforts on keeping ants out of the house,” instructs the UC experts. “Follow good sanitation practices to make your home less attractive to ants.”

Close those would-be ant entries with caulk or other means. (Petroleum jelly can work as a temporary deterrent; they can’t stand sticky stuff.)

Remove what’s attracting the invaders to that area. Most ants go for sweets (cookies, candy, fruit or the classic ant nirvana, a sugar bowl). Others prefer cereals, crackers, pet food or other grain-based products. All ants seem to go for garbage.

Clean up any crumbs or sticky spills. Wipe surfaces with a soapy sponge or spray with window cleaner. That disrupts ant scent trails, the method ants use to communicate where to go.

Ant bait situated near those would-be entry points can help. (Ants carry the poison back to their nests.) But baits can take a week or more before they start taking effect. (The scouts have to find it, then introduce it to their nest.)

Ant control takes patience and persistence, sort of like the ants themselves.

To better tackle these itty-bitty intruders, get to know ants a little better. Not all ants are the same.

Argentine ants – which are dull brown and about 1/8-inch long – love sugar and oilThe most common invader, they make straight lines as they follow the leader to their quarry. Their colonies can number in the millions.

According to the UCIPM, Argentine ants “travel rapidly in distinctive trails along sidewalks, up sides of buildings, along branches of trees and shrubs, along baseboards, and under edges of carpets.”

My invaders were most likely Odorous house ants; they look similar to their Argentine cousins, except they’re darker – dark brown or shiny black – and they stink when crushed (hence the name). They also tend to wander around instead of traveling in straight lines.

The UCIPM ant page includes links to information on common household ants and helpful videos (including what to do in an ant emergency). Find it herehttps://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/invertebrates/links.ants.html

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Garden Checklist for week of June 15

Make the most of this “average” weather; your garden is growing fast! (So are the weeds!)

* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.

* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don’t let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.

* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

* Pull weeds before they go to seed.

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the wee hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather. It also helps smother weeds.

* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

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