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How to combat ants when they come indoors

Skip pesticides and grab a soapy sponge (and caulk)

Use these tools to fight ants without pesticides: caulk to block entrance sites and a soapy sponge or glass cleaner to disrupt ant scent trails.

Use these tools to fight ants without pesticides: caulk to block entrance sites and a soapy sponge or glass cleaner to disrupt ant scent trails. Kathy Morrison

With soggy soil and cold weather come unwanted home invaders – ants.

Can you blame them? They’re looking for somewhere warm and dry. They’re also searching for food; those scout ants have literally thousands of mouths to feed back in their colonies.

Since our recent storm waterlogged the path outside our kitchen, I’ve been fighting these clever little devils in their attempts to relocate indoors. First, a few showed up near the back door. Then, a couple crawled across the counter. More wandered around my spice cabinet. All were dispatched quickly with a soapy sponge.

The real trouble came overnight. They apparently crawled down the stove vent inside a pantry cabinet and discovered a bonanza – an unsealed box of crackers. When I opened the cabinet in the morning to get some cereal, I screamed. Ants seemed to be everywhere (although the cracker box was the only one that they had penetrated).

The battle is now truly on.

The advice from the University of California Integrated Pest Management program: Keep calm and grab some caulk.

Spraying pesticides inside the home will not prevent more ants from entering, says the UCIPM website. Instead, you need to figure out where they’re getting in and block those holes. It could be a small space around a door, a little crack under a window or a small gap around a pipe or vent. Follow the ants; they’ll eventually show you where.

Focus efforts on keeping ants out of the house,” instructs the UC experts. “Follow good sanitation practices to make your home less attractive to ants.”

Close those would-be ant entries with caulk or other means. (Petroleum jelly can work as a temporary deterrent; they can’t stand sticky stuff.)

Remove what’s attracting the invaders to that area. Most ants go for sweets (cookies, candy, fruit or the classic ant nirvana, a sugar bowl). Others prefer cereals, crackers, pet food or other grain-based products. All ants seem to go for garbage.

Clean up any crumbs or sticky spills. Wipe surfaces with a soapy sponge or spray with window cleaner. That disrupts ant scent trails, the method ants use to communicate where to go.

Ant bait situated near those would-be entry points can help. (Ants carry the poison back to their nests.) But baits can take a week or more before they start taking effect. (The scouts have to find it, then introduce it to their nest.)

Ant control takes patience and persistence, sort of like the ants themselves.

To better tackle these itty-bitty intruders, get to know ants a little better. Not all ants are the same.

Argentine ants – which are dull brown and about 1/8-inch long – love sugar and oilThe most common invader, they make straight lines as they follow the leader to their quarry. Their colonies can number in the millions.

According to the UCIPM, Argentine ants “travel rapidly in distinctive trails along sidewalks, up sides of buildings, along branches of trees and shrubs, along baseboards, and under edges of carpets.”

My invaders were most likely Odorous house ants; they look similar to their Argentine cousins, except they’re darker – dark brown or shiny black – and they stink when crushed (hence the name). They also tend to wander around instead of traveling in straight lines.

The UCIPM ant page includes links to information on common household ants and helpful videos (including what to do in an ant emergency). Find it herehttps://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/invertebrates/links.ants.html

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Garden Checklist for week of Jan. 12

Once the winds die down, it’s good winter gardening weather with plenty to do:

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees. (The exceptions are apricot and cherry trees, which are susceptible to a fungus that causes dieback. Save them until summer.) Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* After the wind stops, apply horticultural oil to fruit trees to control scale, mites and aphids. Oils need 24 hours of dry weather after application to be effective.

* This is also the time to spray a copper-based fungicide to peach and nectarine trees to fight leaf curl. (The safest effective fungicides available for backyard trees are copper soap -- aka copper octanoate -- or copper ammonium, a fixed copper fungicide. Apply either of these copper products with 1% horticultural oil to increase effectiveness.)

* When forced bulbs sprout, move them to a cool, bright window. Give them a quarter turn each day so the stems will grow straight.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

* Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs.

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladioli for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Plant blooming azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. If you’re shopping for these beautiful landscape plants, you can now find them in full flower at local nurseries.

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