A lemon cake for the change of seasons

For some reason, lemon baked goods make me think of spring.

Which is silly, because lemons ripen here long before spring, especially Meyer lemons. Even the Genoa lemon tree in my backyard is covered with ready-to-pick fruit, and winter still has 12 more days to go. (Store that fruit on the tree as long as possible, by the way.)

But we can celebrate the springlike weather with this easy lemon cake, which stays moist longer because the fat used is olive oil, not butter.

This recipe, which combines two similar ones I ran across, makes a very liquid batter and consequently a large cake if baked in one pan. I recommend a 9-inch springform pan, a 10-inch round cake pan or even a Bundt pan. I decided to bake mine in two 8.5-by-4.5-inch loaf pans, to make it easier to store and serve. (Hmm, I may freeze one of the cakes for later.)

The lemon glaze is optional -- I left it off the cake in the main picture -- since this cake also can be dressed up with berries, fruit sauce and/or whipped cream.

It use several lemons, which was one of my goals here. Choose a fruity olive oil for the recipe, rather than an intense one, if you like me collect various types of olive oil.

Lemony olive oil cake

Makes 10-12 servings

Ingredients:

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting pan(s)

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pan(s)

1 cup granulated sugar

Zest from 3 large lemons

3 eggs, room temperature

1-1/4 cups buttermilk (or whole milk with 2 tablespoons lemon juice to make 1-1/4 cups), room temperature

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Optional glaze:

1 cup confectioners sugar

2 tablespoons half and half or heavy cream, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon butter, melted

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 tablespoon lemon zest

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Instructions:

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Grease the preferred springform, cake or loaf pan(s) with olive oil. Fit a piece of parchment paper into the bottom of the pan(s),  grease that with olive oil, and then dust the pan with flour.  (Note: Tracing the bottom of the pan onto the parchment paper, then cutting it out, will help with the fit of the paper.) If using a Bundt pan, skip the paper -- just grease it thoroughly with oil and dust with flour. Set pan(s) aside.

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.

In another large bowl, use a spoon or spatula to mush together the sugar and lemon zest, which spreads the lemon oils to the sugar. Then, add the eggs and use a mixer on high to beat the mixture until thick, about 5 minutes.

Next, slowly drizzle in the oil while the mixer is running. Reduce the mixer speed and add the buttermilk and vanilla.

Now gradually add the flour mixture, scraping down the sides of the bowl as you go.

Once the flour is incorporated, pour or scoop the batter into the prepared pan or pans.

Bake 40 to 45 minutes or until a toothpick or skewer stuck into the center of the cake comes out clean.

Cool the cake on a rack for 20 minutes, then run a knife around the inside edge of the pan and turn it out. Peel off the parchment paper and place the cake on a serving plate.

If making the glaze: Whisk all the ingredients together until smooth. Spoon over the cooled cake and allow to sit for at least 10 minutes before cutting and serving. Note: If baking the cake in a Bundt pan, you may want to double the glaze recipe for more thorough coverage.

Serve unglazed cake with sliced berries, fruit sauce and/or whipped cream as desired.