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Tomatoes won't ripen? Could be too much sun, heat

Triple-digit temperatures can keep tomatoes from turning full red, says Farmer Fred

Jetsetter tomato seems stuck on orange instead of turning full red. Blame the heat.

Jetsetter tomato seems stuck on orange instead of turning full red. Blame the heat. Debbie Arrington

It seems counterintuitive; instead of ripening faster as days get hotter, tomatoes seem to slow down.

A lot of Sacramento-area gardeners are experiencing that phenomenon firsthand as they watch their tomatoes very very very slowly change from pinkish to full red.

Farmer Fred Hoffman, lifetime master gardener and award-winning radio host/podcaster, made that point in his weekly newsletter and “Garden Basics” podcast.

“Many area gardeners are wondering about the lack of color of their tomatoes now, in late summer,” Hoffman said. “Blame the triple-digit heat spikes that have occurred coast to coast for the slowdown this summer.”

According to university research, a couple of factors are in play. In late summer, tomato vines may have fewer leaves. Less foliage means less photosynthesis, which means less energy and slower growth for the plant. Without that boost of energy, its green tomatoes take longer to grow to size and ripen.

In addition, red pigments can’t form properly in triple-digit heat. Yellow and orange pigments seem to do OK, which leads to ripe tomatoes with splotches. They’re fine to eat, although not classically perfect.

Another factor: Soil temperature. If tomato roots stay over 80 degrees, fruit ripening is affected, too. (This is a problem in container-grown tomatoes.)

If your tomatoes seem to be taking forever to ripen, the solution is easy: Pick them. Then let them ripen in a dark space indoors (such as in a box on the kitchen counter). Their flavor may not be as intense as if vine-ripened, but they’ll be red and juicy – and finally ready to eat.

“Light conditions have very little to do with ripening," report Cornell University researchers. “Tomatoes do not require light to ripen and in fact, fruit exposed to direct sunlight will heat to levels that inhibit pigment synthesis. If temperatures remain high outdoors, these picked fruit will ripen more quickly, perhaps by as much as five days.”

Hoffman also has great advice this week on worms (or to be more specific, caterpillars) that eat tomatoes, and how to tell the culprits apart.

Listen to Farmer Fred’s podcast and newsletter here: https://gardenbasics.substack.com/.

Check out his "Get Growing" website here: http://www.farmerfred.com/

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Garden Checklist for week of March 2

Between raindrops, get outside and do some work. Your plants have been busy growing!

* Pull weeds now! Don’t let them get started. Take a hoe and whack them as soon as they sprout.

* Start preparing vegetable beds. Spade in compost and other amendments.

* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs after bloom.

* Feed camellias at the end of their bloom cycle. Pick up browned and fallen flowers to help corral blossom blight.

* Feed citrus trees, which are now in bloom and setting fruit. To prevent sunburn and borer problems on young trees, paint the exposed portion of the trunk with diluted white latex (water-based) interior paint. Dilute the paint with an equal amount of cold water before application.

* Feed roses with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium available in that product).

* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs and trees after they bloom. Try using well-composted manure, spread 1-inch thick under the tree. This serves as both fertilizer and mulch, retaining moisture while cutting down on weeds.

* Cut back and fertilize perennial herbs to encourage new growth.

* In the vegetable garden, transplant lettuce and cole family plants, such as cabbage, broccoli, collards and kale.

* Seed chard and beets directly into the ground. (Tip: Soaking beet seeds in warm water a day ahead of planting helps with germination.)

* Before the mercury starts inching upward, this is your last chance to plant such annuals as pansies, violas and primroses.

* Plant summer bulbs, including gladiolus, tuberous begonias and callas. Also plant dahlia tubers.

* Shop for perennials. Many varieties are available in local nurseries and at plant events. They can be transplanted now while the weather remains relatively cool.

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