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It's not too late to plant tomatoes (and more)

How to make the most now of our unusual spring combination

Many happy vegetable plants are mulched with straw in the raised beds at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center. What you can't see are the irrigation lines running through the beds under the straw.

Many happy vegetable plants are mulched with straw in the raised beds at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center. What you can't see are the irrigation lines running through the beds under the straw. Kathy Morrison

Thanks to relatively cool spring weather and abundant soil moisture, it’s not too late to plant tomatoes – or a lot of other things.

This year represents a rare window of gardening opportunity. Due to bountiful rain, this is a great time to set your garden up for success for years to come – no matter the weather.

The greater Sacramento area benefited from a wet winter and spring. According to the National Weather Service, the station at Sacramento State University recorded more than 26.6 inches this water year (including our last rainfall on May 6); average for that period is 18.3 inches. Our water year (which started Oct. 1) is 145% of normal.

Such abundant rainfall gave soil a deep and lasting soak. Besides refreshing trees and shrubs, that extra moisture will help new transplants get off to a healthy start, put down deep roots and become “established” – well-rooted and able to withstand stress. That includes the stress of future droughts.

“The best way to prepare for lean water years is prepare when we have rain,” says Greg Gayton, garden guru for Green Acres Nursery & Supply. “People think, ‘The drought is over!’ But no, it isn’t; plants are still recuperating (from three years of drought) and we still have to prepare for future drought.”

This summer, concentrate on helping your plants stay healthy and happy; like people, healthy plants better withstand stress and challenges.

Gayton recommends slow-release organic soil amendments such as compost, worm castings or organic fertilizer blends; those feed the soil as well as plants and encourage slow, consistent growth – important for resistance to pests and disease.

More water is not necessarily the answer for a failing plant, Gayton notes.

“The biggest reason plants die? Too much water,” he says. “Especially citrus; most problems can be traced to too much water. But it’s true of all naturally drought-tolerant plants including California natives and Mediterranean plants. People see drooping foliage or yellow leaves, they give those plants more water, but their roots may already be waterlogged. They don’t need more water; their roots are drowning. Too much water causes flowers to drop off or disease problems, too.”

The solution? “Check soil moisture before you turn on irrigation,” he says. “Use a soil probe or moisture meter. Don’t water if you don’t need to.”

When you water, do it in the early morning. That cuts down on evaporation loss as well as the spread of fungal disease. (Foliage has a chance to dry out in the afternoon sun.)

Don’t forget to mulch. Organic mulch such as wood chips, straw or dried leaves helps soil retain its moisture while keeping plant roots comfortable in heat or cold. Organic material such as mulch and compost also feeds soil microbes, essential to healthy soil and plants.

Consistent soil moisture not only helps plants but also soil biology, the key to a healthy garden, Gayton explains. “When you have good soil biology – with lots of soil microbes – you can use less water and fertilizer. Plants with good soil biology around their roots can take high heat and have less water requirements. Healthy soil makes for healthy plants. It works all the way around.”

Drip irrigation puts water where plants need it most – at the roots. But make regular checks on driplines and emitters; are they really in the right place?

The most common drip irrigation mistake: Emitters in the wrong place (or not enough), Gayton says.

“Emitters need to be at the dripline (the farthest reach of a plant’s foliage); that’s where the roots are,” he explains. “This is a problem especially with trees or large shrubs. As plants grow, their roots go farther out. But people put one emitter next to the trunk, and never move it. Next to the trunk, that’s not where the roots are unless it’s a very young plant. And healthy plants don’t have roots on just one side; you need multiple emitters around the entire plant’s dripline.”

Watering at the dripline also trains the plant to grow its roots further out; that’s more insurance against drought stress.

Driplines are easier to install and maintain if installed along with the landscaping, Gayton notes. If installing a new garden, consider raised beds.

“Raised beds are the way to go,” he says. “Raised beds or containers are best because you control the soil – you can have the perfect loamy soil with good drainage. You control soil moisture. You have fewer if any weeds. You control everything. You have fewer problems overall.”

As for those tomatoes, there’s still time – particularly this season, Gayton says. The Sacramento forecast for this Memorial Day weekend is very mild – in the low 80s.

“I’ve gone as late as June 1,” he says, adding that it was during a more typical spring.

Look for varieties that reach maturity faster (under 75 days) such as Early Girl, Champion and Celebrity, plus smaller varieties including cherry, grape or patio tomatoes. Other summer crops including peppers, eggplant, squash and melons can be planted now, too.

“Just remember to plant (seedlings) in the morning,” Gayton says. “Not only is it better for the person planting them, but it’s good for the plants, too. They get off to a good start in the morning. They’re watered, situated and happy in the ground when it gets warm later in the day.”

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Flowers in My Back Yard Series

Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower

July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show

July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)

July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy

July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies

June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden

June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners

June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)

June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself

June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude

May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?

May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs

May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power

May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens

May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend

April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look

April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower

April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact

April 7: Calendulas do double duty

April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come

March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)

March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots

March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums

March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come

March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy

Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?

Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come

Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers

Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses

Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?

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Garden checklist for week of Aug. 2

Get out early in the morning and monitor your garden’s moisture needs. Deep water and add temporary shade structures for plants that are feeling a little burned. In particular, protect developing peppers and eggplant.

* Put off fertilization until this heat passes; plants need to concentrate on hydration instead of growth.

* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers.

* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.

* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don’t let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.

* Pinch off dead flowers from perennials and annuals to lengthen their summer bloom.

* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot.

* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.

* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.

* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.

* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips. Make sure to keep seeds and seedlings consistently moist.

* Plant potatoes.

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Taste Winter! E-cookbook

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth