How to make the most now of our unusual spring combination
Many happy vegetable plants are mulched with straw in the raised beds at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center. What you can't see are the irrigation lines running through the beds under the straw. Kathy Morrison
Thanks to relatively cool spring weather and abundant soil moisture, it’s not too late to plant tomatoes – or a lot of other things.
This year represents a rare window of gardening opportunity. Due to bountiful rain, this is a great time to set your garden up for success for years to come – no matter the weather.
The greater Sacramento area benefited from a wet winter and spring. According to the National Weather Service, the station at Sacramento State University recorded more than 26.6 inches this water year (including our last rainfall on May 6); average for that period is 18.3 inches. Our water year (which started Oct. 1) is 145% of normal.
Such abundant rainfall gave soil a deep and lasting soak. Besides refreshing trees and shrubs, that extra moisture will help new transplants get off to a healthy start, put down deep roots and become “established” – well-rooted and able to withstand stress. That includes the stress of future droughts.
“The best way to prepare for lean water years is prepare when we have rain,” says Greg Gayton, garden guru for Green Acres Nursery & Supply. “People think, ‘The drought is over!’ But no, it isn’t; plants are still recuperating (from three years of drought) and we still have to prepare for future drought.”
This summer, concentrate on helping your plants stay healthy and happy; like people, healthy plants better withstand stress and challenges.
Gayton recommends slow-release organic soil amendments such as compost, worm castings or organic fertilizer blends; those feed the soil as well as plants and encourage slow, consistent growth – important for resistance to pests and disease.
More water is not necessarily the answer for a failing plant, Gayton notes.
“The biggest reason plants die? Too much water,” he says. “Especially citrus; most problems can be traced to too much water. But it’s true of all naturally drought-tolerant plants including California natives and Mediterranean plants. People see drooping foliage or yellow leaves, they give those plants more water, but their roots may already be waterlogged. They don’t need more water; their roots are drowning. Too much water causes flowers to drop off or disease problems, too.”
The solution? “Check soil moisture before you turn on irrigation,” he says. “Use a soil probe or moisture meter. Don’t water if you don’t need to.”
When you water, do it in the early morning. That cuts down on evaporation loss as well as the spread of fungal disease. (Foliage has a chance to dry out in the afternoon sun.)
Don’t forget to mulch. Organic mulch such as wood chips, straw or dried leaves helps soil retain its moisture while keeping plant roots comfortable in heat or cold. Organic material such as mulch and compost also feeds soil microbes, essential to healthy soil and plants.
Consistent soil moisture not only helps plants but also soil biology, the key to a healthy garden, Gayton explains. “When you have good soil biology – with lots of soil microbes – you can use less water and fertilizer. Plants with good soil biology around their roots can take high heat and have less water requirements. Healthy soil makes for healthy plants. It works all the way around.”
Drip irrigation puts water where plants need it most – at the roots. But make regular checks on driplines and emitters; are they really in the right place?
The most common drip irrigation mistake: Emitters in the wrong place (or not enough), Gayton says.
“Emitters need to be at the dripline (the farthest reach of a plant’s foliage); that’s where the roots are,” he explains. “This is a problem especially with trees or large shrubs. As plants grow, their roots go farther out. But people put one emitter next to the trunk, and never move it. Next to the trunk, that’s not where the roots are unless it’s a very young plant. And healthy plants don’t have roots on just one side; you need multiple emitters around the entire plant’s dripline.”
Watering at the dripline also trains the plant to grow its roots further out; that’s more insurance against drought stress.
Driplines are easier to install and maintain if installed along with the landscaping, Gayton notes. If installing a new garden, consider raised beds.
“Raised beds are the way to go,” he says. “Raised beds or containers are best because you control the soil – you can have the perfect loamy soil with good drainage. You control soil moisture. You have fewer if any weeds. You control everything. You have fewer problems overall.”
As for those tomatoes, there’s still time – particularly this season, Gayton says. The Sacramento forecast for this Memorial Day weekend is very mild – in the low 80s.
“I’ve gone as late as June 1,” he says, adding that it was during a more typical spring.
Look for varieties that reach maturity faster (under 75 days) such as Early Girl, Champion and Celebrity, plus smaller varieties including cherry, grape or patio tomatoes. Other summer crops including peppers, eggplant, squash and melons can be planted now, too.
“Just remember to plant (seedlings) in the morning,” Gayton says. “Not only is it better for the person planting them, but it’s good for the plants, too. They get off to a good start in the morning. They’re watered, situated and happy in the ground when it gets warm later in the day.”
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
Aug. 25: Crape myrtles, Sacramento's unofficial tree of summer
Aug. 18: Pollinators adore scabiosa, aka pincushion flower
Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact
Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower
July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show
July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)
July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Aug. 16
During this break in the heat, feed your garden. Make sure to water before and after applying fertilizer.
* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips.
* Plant potatoes.
* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers. Also, give them a boost with phosphate-rich fertilizer to help fruiting.
* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.
* Feed citrus trees their last round of fertilizer for the year. This will give a boost to the fruit that’s still small.
* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don't let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.
* Camellia leaves looking a little yellow? Give them some chelated iron. That goes for azaleas and gardenias, too.
* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot. Then feed fruit trees with slow-release fertilizer for better production for next year.
* To prolong bloom into fall, feed begonias, fuchsias and container plants. Always water before fertilizing.
* Fertilize fall-blooming perennials, too. Chrysanthemums can be fed until the buds start to open.
* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials, then give them a boost of fertilizer. Make sure to water plants before feeding. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.
* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.
* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Add asparagus to your edible garden
Soggy soil and what to do about it
Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
We don't talk (enough) about beets
Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Enhance your food with edible flowers
Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
How to grow summer salad greens
Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
Help pollinators help your garden
Battling early-season tomato pests
Where are the bees when you need them?
How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
Grow culinary herbs in containers
When to plant summer vegetables
Don't be fooled by these garden myths
Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth