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Beat the heat: How mulch can save your garden

Layer of wood chips, straw or leaves helps plants cope with summer temperatures

Wood chip mulch helps these plants' roots stay cool, controls weeds, and improves the soil, too.

Wood chip mulch helps these plants' roots stay cool, controls weeds, and improves the soil, too. Courtesy BeWaterSmart.info

As temperatures rise this month, gardeners can do one thing that will make a huge difference for their plants (and their pocketbooks): Mulch.

It’s amazing what a layer of leaves, chips or straw can do.

Following nature’s lead, mulch can insulate plant roots from heat and cold, cut down on weeds, feed the soil – and save lots of water, time and money.

In summer, a layer of organic mulch – wood chips, straw, dried leaves or similar material – can add up to major water savings. Local water managers estimate that 2 to 3 inches of mulch can save 30 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet every time irrigation is turned on.

Landscape experts know that mulch is key to helping plants not only survive but thrive during Sacramento summers.

“Mulch is the essence of garden life, the foundation for your garden,” says Greg Gayton, garden guru for Green Acres Nursery & Supply. “Mulch suppresses weeds – which cuts down on work. It cools the roots of plants and maintains moisture so plants can get through the summer time. And it helps soil biology; that makes for healthier plants.”

Mulch is particularly important during summer months, he notes. “In summer, no mulch is a big problem. Mulch retains moisture. Without it, your garden dries out quickly, plants are stressed. With mulch, you don’t water as often and your plants are much happier.”

How much mulch does your garden need? For best results, apply wood chips in a 2- to 3-inch layer. One 2-cubic foot bag covers 8 to 12 square feet. One cubic yard covers 162 square feet 2 inches deep or 108 square feet 3 inches deep.

Don’t mound mulch around trunks. Make sure to clear a space at least 4 to 6 inches away around trees or shrubs. Otherwise, those plants retain too much moisture at their base; that can lead to crown rot.

In his own garden, Gayton uses lots of organic mulch including soil amendments such as worm castings or aged chicken or steer manures.

“I always mulch twice a year,” he says. “I like to put down manures. I’m always adding things to the soil. I don’t incorporate it (dig it in); I just lay it on top.”

Then, the nutrients can trickle down into the soil while the blanket of mulch smothers weeds. When these amendments are dug into the soil, that can bring fresh weed seeds to the surface to sprout.

“I prefer organic mulches because they add to the soil,” Gayton explains. “It’s really important to build up nice soil biology.”

That biology is based on microbes – the microscopic organisms that break down nutrients in soil. Without microbes, plant roots can’t access those natural nutrients. Microbes really appreciate that mulch blanket; while feeding them, mulch helps keep their environment comfortable, too.

Mulch also is a major time saver for gardeners, Gayton adds.

“Mulch is instrumental in keeping weeds controlled,” he says. “It even works against Bermuda grass and bindweed. I keep putting mulch on top and plants thrive.”

Mulch also can give a finished look to a landscape. An even layer of wood chips can unify planting beds.

Commercial bark – which is usually cedar or redwood – is available in different colors such as black or red. The bark is treated and dyed with biodegradable coloring that’s safe for people, plants and pets. According to manufacturers, iron oxide is used to color bark red; black bark is dyed with carbon black.

Gayton prefers plain wood chips to dyed. “I prefer a natural look – I’m a purist,” he says. “Bark is always good natural looking. I prefer the small pieces; they break down faster.”

Gorilla hair – shredded cedar bark – is another popular choice, but use with caution. “Gorilla hair is great – if you don’t live in a high fire-danger area,” Gayton notes. “It keeps the ground cool, but it can catch fire easily. Don’t use it in the foothills, but it’s definitely OK in the city.”

Gayton is not a fan of landscape rocks as mulch. They may look cool in a landscape, he notes, but tend to absorb heat and stress plant roots. Some landscapers like decomposed granite, gravel or rocks around shrubs and trees because they’re easy to blow off leaves. But the rocks aren’t adding nutrients to the soil.

However, rock doesn’t burn. In high fire-danger areas, decomposed granite or gravel is a must to help create defensible space. The California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection recommends surrounding structures with a 5-foot-wide buffer of hardscape, gravel or rock, as well as using gravel as a fire buffer in the landscape.

It’s a barrier to fire and serves a purpose,” Gayton says. “It looks nice and neat, but I tend to use organic mulch and use rock sparingly.”

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

WINTER:

Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth

WINTER

March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds

March 4: Potatoes from the garden

Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space

Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting

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Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18

Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

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