Recipe: Turn a late-summer harvest into a sweet, spicy condiment
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| Put the first layer of tomatoes on top of sugar in the pan. (Photos: Kathy Morrison) |
I'm still getting tomatoes. They're not pretty, but they are full of flavor. I wanted to make a spicy tomato jam that would be a burst of summer months from now, when homegrown tomatoes are a memory. But jam requires, oh geez, a lot of stirring!
The answer: Use the oven to cook the jam. I don't know why I didn't long ago discover this technique, which I found on the Food52.com website. I've been canning and freezing tomatoes for at least 10 years, and have also made fruit jam at various times. But now that I've done this, better believe I'm going to use it a lot more. Not having to worry about scorching the jam in a stovetop pot is a relief.
I chose to go tangy-spicy with this recipe, but you can change up the spices to suit your taste. I envision using the jam over roasted chicken thighs, stirred into sour cream for dip or spread on toasted sourdough. My spice selection is listed first in the ingredients; the alternatives are from the original recipe.
Just be sure to use good tomatoes. They don't have to be perfect-looking, but should be fully ripe. I didn't peel them; next time I would peel about half of them, to reduce the skins in the final product. The seeds do add to the texture but squeeze them out if you wish before you thinly slice the tomatoes.
Note: This recipe is not designed to be canned. Use the jam fresh or freeze it for later.
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| Peppers are optional but I had some, so why not? |
Oven-roasted sweet 'n' spicy tomato freezer jam
Makes about 3 cups
Ingredients:
2 cups granulated sugar, divided
3 pounds ripe tomatoes, any variety of red or a mix of red and yellow, cored and sliced 1/4-inch thick
Generous pinch of salt
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, or 1 cinnamon stick
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds or fennel seeds, lightly crushed
2 small peppers, hot or mild, halved, seeded and sliced (optional)
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or 2 dried chilies
Instructions:
Pour 2/3 cup of the sugar over the bottom of a large braising pan or other large oven-safe baking dish. Layer in half the tomato slices, overlapping slightly. Sprinkle the slices with the salt, 1/3 cup sugar, the lemon zest, cinnamon or cinnamon stick, cumin or fennel seeds, the peppers (if using) and red pepper flakes or chilies.
Layer the rest of the tomato slices over the spices, followed by the remaining 1 cup sugar. Allow the tomatoes to macerate for 30 minutes. While they're sitting, preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Place the uncovered pan in the oven, checking every 20 minutes or so, stirring and spooning the juices over the top tomatoes. The tomato juices should be simmering by the end of 1 hour. (Remove the chilies if they char.)
The tomatoes are topped with the last of the sugar before
going in the oven.
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Continue roasting and stirring every 20 minutes. The jam should start to gel after about 2 hours, but it depends on how juicy your tomatoes are. To check, use the classic plate test: Onto a cool or chilled plate, spoon a little jam. Let it cool for a minute, then run your finger through it, drawing a line. If it "holds" and doesn't spread back to fill in the line, the jam is ready.
Remove the jam from the oven and let it cool. (Remove the cinnamon stick if used.) Spoon it into freezer jars or refrigerator containers, depending on how you wish to store it.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
WINTER:
Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18
Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
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