Sacramento Digs Gardening logo
Sacramento Digs Gardening Article
Your resource for Sacramento-area gardening news, tips and events

Articles Recipe Index Keyword Index Calendar Twitter Facebook Instagram About Us Contact Us

Good trees, bad locations

Birches aren't drought-tolerant and other things to know

Newly cut stump
This stump is all that's left of the fifth and last birch tree in my yard. (Photos:
Kathy Morrison)

The last of the five birch trees that were in our front yard bit the dust Wednesday. The tree crew took just 45 minutes to fell it, the branches hitting the muddy lawn with a loud "thud" as they were cut off.

Birch branch
Birches are prized for their white bark but
the branches can be brittle.

The other four white birches had been removed when we bought our Carmichael home nearly 22 years ago. Someone had planted pairs of the trees on either side of the driveway -- a horrible choice for a tree that attracts aphids and the resulting honeydew. I knew enough then to demand they be taken out, to protect our cars.

But the fifth tree was on the opposite side of the yard, the southern side, and it did a great job shielding some of the garden and house from the afternoon sun. (Of course it also dropped tons of small leaves in the fall.) The squirrels used it as part of their arborial highway, and the scrub jays often sat in the upper branches, keeping watch against predators while their nestlings slept in the nearby fern pine tree.

It takes a long time to kill a tree, so I think the big California drought of 2011-2017 spelled the eventual doom of this birch tree.

Birch tree in winter
This birch tree in a Carmichael neighborhood looks healthier
than the one we had removed this week.

White birches, also known as paper birches ( Betula papyrifera ), were a trendy landscape tree in the suburbs of the later 1950s right into early 1970s. The house I grew up in, built around 1960, had a classic trio of white birches outside my bedroom window.

My current neighborhood was built between 1962 and 1970, and some stands of birches remain, but they are looking their age. And people still plant them -- a house a block away has two relatively young trees growing right in the lawn.

Tree fans contend that there are no bad trees, only bad tree locations, and I'm inclined to agree.

Here's the truth of the matter: Birches are natives of very cold climates. They need moist soil, and their shallow, wide-spreading roots are vulnerable to heat and drought. That makes the white birch one of the worst trees you can plant in drought-prone California. The aphids, of course, are another issue.

This last birch put out roots under most of our front lawn, but the irrigation cutbacks were clearly hurting it. The leaves this past year were much sparser than in past seasons, and a few of the branches in the crown didn't have leaves at all. My neighbor was afraid it was going to fall on her house -- though it wasn't leaning -- so we had our favorite arborist come look at it.

He agreed that the tree was slowly failing and could lose the top in a heavy windstorm. Birches in our climate, he noted, have a life span of 15 to 20 years or so. And this tree was at least 25, probably more. He said we could have it topped or have it removed. I've seen a few pathetic topped birches in the neighborhood, and I didn't want that.

So down it had to go, and yesterday it did.

The yard seems more exposed, so I probably will plant some shrubby native perennials in that area, but not another tree. There are utility lines buried nearby and I don't want to chance disturbing them.

If you have a birch in your yard, keep a close eye on it. And while you're at it, get to know the other trees around you, to forestall future questions. A tree that doesn't match our climate can survive -- with extra care.

But natives and other low-water trees are better choices. The Sacramento Tree Foundation site is an excellent place to start learning about these, with loads of information on trees for local landscapes. It also has information on how to hire an arborist.


Comments

0 comments have been posted.

Newsletter Subscription

Sacramento Digs Gardening to your inbox.

Local News

Ad for California Local

Taste Spring! E-cookbook

Strawberries

Find our spring recipes here!

Garden checklist for week of June 14

We'll be back to normal temperatures for mid-June (about 86 degrees) by Thursday. In the meanwhile:

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.

* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.

* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.

* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don't let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes. There’s still time to plant melons, pumpkins and squash from seed.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, bidens, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

Contact Us

Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event.  sacdigsgardening@gmail.com

Taste Summer! E-cookbook

square-tomatoes-plate.jpg

Find our summer recipes here!

Taste Fall! E-cookbook

Muffins and pumpkin

Find our fall recipes here!

Taste Winter! E-cookbook

Lemon coconut pancakes

Find our winter recipes here!

Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth