Birches aren't drought-tolerant and other things to know
|
|
This stump is all that's left of the fifth and last birch tree in my yard. (Photos:
Kathy Morrison)
|
The last of the five birch trees that were in our front yard bit the dust Wednesday. The tree crew took just 45 minutes to fell it, the branches hitting the muddy lawn with a loud "thud" as they were cut off.
|
|
Birches are prized for their white bark but
the branches can be brittle.
|
But the fifth tree was on the opposite side of the yard, the southern side, and it did a great job shielding some of the garden and house from the afternoon sun. (Of course it also dropped tons of small leaves in the fall.) The squirrels used it as part of their arborial highway, and the scrub jays often sat in the upper branches, keeping watch against predators while their nestlings slept in the nearby fern pine tree.
It takes a long time to kill a tree, so I think the big California drought of 2011-2017 spelled the eventual doom of this birch tree.
|
|
This birch tree in a Carmichael neighborhood looks healthier
than the one we had removed this week. |
My current neighborhood was built between 1962 and 1970, and some stands of birches remain, but they are looking their age. And people still plant them -- a house a block away has two relatively young trees growing right in the lawn.
Tree fans contend that there are no bad trees, only bad tree locations, and I'm inclined to agree.
Here's the truth of the matter: Birches are natives of very cold climates. They need moist soil, and their shallow, wide-spreading roots are vulnerable to heat and drought. That makes the white birch one of the worst trees you can plant in drought-prone California. The aphids, of course, are another issue.
This last birch put out roots under most of our front lawn, but the irrigation cutbacks were clearly hurting it. The leaves this past year were much sparser than in past seasons, and a few of the branches in the crown didn't have leaves at all. My neighbor was afraid it was going to fall on her house -- though it wasn't leaning -- so we had our favorite arborist come look at it.
He agreed that the tree was slowly failing and could lose the top in a heavy windstorm. Birches in our climate, he noted, have a life span of 15 to 20 years or so. And this tree was at least 25, probably more. He said we could have it topped or have it removed. I've seen a few pathetic topped birches in the neighborhood, and I didn't want that.
So down it had to go, and yesterday it did.
The yard seems more exposed, so I probably will plant some shrubby native perennials in that area, but not another tree. There are utility lines buried nearby and I don't want to chance disturbing them.
If you have a birch in your yard, keep a close eye on it. And while you're at it, get to know the other trees around you, to forestall future questions. A tree that doesn't match our climate can survive -- with extra care.
But natives and other low-water trees are better choices. The Sacramento Tree Foundation site is an excellent place to start learning about these, with loads of information on trees for local landscapes. It also has information on how to hire an arborist.
Comments
0 comments have been posted.Sacramento Digs Gardening to your inbox.
Flowers in My Back Yard Series
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of April 12
After these storms pass, get to work on spring clean-up.
* Weed, weed, weed! Take advantage of soft soil and pull them before they go to seed.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, radishes and squash.
* Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias.
* Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Transplant heat-resistant lettuce seedlings.
* Feed roses and other spring-blooming shrubs.
* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.
* Smell orange blossoms? Feed citrus trees with a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants.
* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.
* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds. Avoid "volcano mulching" -- be sure to keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks or the stems of shrubs. This prevents rot and disease.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth