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More rain is coming soon -- how's the garden holding up?

Some trouble spots to look for before Saturday's storm

Oops, something knocked this small bucket to the ground, where it's been collecting water from recent rainstorms. Check around garden equipment as well as plants and drainpipes for water accumulation.

Oops, something knocked this small bucket to the ground, where it's been collecting water from recent rainstorms. Check around garden equipment as well as plants and drainpipes for water accumulation. Kathy Morrison

It was sunny and bright (and cold!) this morning after Wednesday's clamminess and a bit of rain, but clouds are due to return late this afternoon. And Saturday is expected to be wet, wet, wet all day as another storm rolls in.

There's just enough time walk around the garden for a between-storms checkup. But avoid walking on saturated soil: Stick to sidewalks or stepping stones, if possible. Here's what to look for:

* The last few storms likely showed where the low spots are in your landscape. Mark them with a stick, to remember where they are when the landscape dries out. Or if dogs or people might remove the stick, take a photograph of the location. Especially note to avoid planting anything in that spot that requires good drainage. Here's a link to an earlier post on garden problems that develop -- including crown rot -- when soil gets too much water.

* Depending on the size and location of puddles, you could hoe a temporary drainage ditch away from them or add some garden soil to soak up the water. Don't pack it, however.

* Consider soggy spots for a rain garden, where water can naturally percolate into the ground to irrigate the landscape.

* Make sure storm drains, gutters and downspouts are clear of leaves, sticks and other debris.

* Even better, take a walk around the block and, with a stick or a plant stake, push leaves away from the gutter drains just enough so water won't back up there. Help the neighborhood avoid flooding.

* While you're at it, make sure your downspouts aren't dumping too much water close to the house or garage. Extend the downspouts away from the house and foundation. Ideally, extensions should take rainwater at least 10 feet away from the house. (Read our earlier post on solutions to drainage problems.)

* Tip excess water out of containers. Make sure potted plants aren’t waterlogged, especially succulents, which can turn mushy and even collapse under the influence of excess water and near-freezing winter temperatures.

* Another container check: Are there so many leaves on the soil surface that raindrops can't get through to the soil and the plant's roots? (They're probably draining down the sides  or -- eek! -- not draining at all.) Some leaves are OK, but not when they create an organic tarp.

* Eliminate standing water that may have accumulated in wheelbarrows, saucers, piles of unused pots, etc.

* Not everything got watered by the rain. Check plants under patios, eaves and overhangs; they may need a drink.

* Turn off any sprinklers which might still be on. Avoid automatic irrigation for now.

* Search for and pick up large twigs or branches that have fallen or been blown out of trees, especially ones that have landed on top of tender plants. Also, look up into the trees to see if there are other loose branches within reach that you can pull down.

-- Kathy Morrison and Debbie Arrington

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Garden checklist for week of June 7

Afternoon highs are expected to be back in the mid 90s by midweek, then edging towards triple digits. Plan your planting and garden activities accordingly.

* Remember to water early.

* It’s not too late to transplant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or other summer favorites. Make sure they stay hydrated.

* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias.

* It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the wee hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.


* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth