Some trouble spots to look for before Saturday's storm
Oops, something knocked this small bucket to the ground, where it's been collecting water from recent rainstorms. Check around garden equipment as well as plants and drainpipes for water accumulation. Kathy Morrison
It was sunny and bright (and cold!) this morning after Wednesday's clamminess and a bit of rain, but clouds are due to return late this afternoon. And Saturday is expected to be wet, wet, wet all day as another storm rolls in.
There's just enough time walk around the garden for a between-storms checkup. But avoid walking on saturated soil: Stick to sidewalks or stepping stones, if possible. Here's what to look for:
* The last few storms likely showed where the low spots are in your landscape. Mark them with a stick, to remember where they are when the landscape dries out. Or if dogs or people might remove the stick, take a photograph of the location. Especially note to avoid planting anything in that spot that requires good drainage. Here's a link to an earlier post on garden problems that develop -- including crown rot -- when soil gets too much water.
* Depending on the size and location of puddles, you could hoe a temporary drainage ditch away from them or add some garden soil to soak up the water. Don't pack it, however.
* Consider soggy spots for a rain garden, where water can naturally percolate into the ground to irrigate the landscape.
* Make sure storm drains, gutters and downspouts are clear of leaves, sticks and other debris.
* Even better, take a walk around the block and, with a stick or a plant stake, push leaves away from the gutter drains just enough so water won't back up there. Help the neighborhood avoid flooding.
* While you're at it, make sure your downspouts aren't dumping too much water close to the house or garage. Extend the downspouts away from the house and foundation. Ideally, extensions should take rainwater at least 10 feet away from the house. (Read our earlier post on solutions to drainage problems.)
* Tip excess water out of containers. Make sure potted plants aren’t waterlogged, especially succulents, which can turn mushy and even collapse under the influence of excess water and near-freezing winter temperatures.
* Another container check: Are there so many leaves on the soil surface that raindrops can't get through to the soil and the plant's roots? (They're probably draining down the sides or -- eek! -- not draining at all.) Some leaves are OK, but not when they create an organic tarp.
* Eliminate standing water that may have accumulated in wheelbarrows, saucers, piles of unused pots, etc.
* Not everything got watered by the rain. Check plants under patios, eaves and overhangs; they may need a drink.
* Turn off any sprinklers which might still be on. Avoid automatic irrigation for now.
* Search for and pick up large twigs or branches that have fallen or been blown out of trees, especially ones that have landed on top of tender plants. Also, look up into the trees to see if there are other loose branches within reach that you can pull down.
-- Kathy Morrison and Debbie Arrington
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Garden Checklist for week of Jan. 12
Once the winds die down, it’s good winter gardening weather with plenty to do:
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees. (The exceptions are apricot and cherry trees, which are susceptible to a fungus that causes dieback. Save them until summer.) Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* After the wind stops, apply horticultural oil to fruit trees to control scale, mites and aphids. Oils need 24 hours of dry weather after application to be effective.
* This is also the time to spray a copper-based fungicide to peach and nectarine trees to fight leaf curl. (The safest effective fungicides available for backyard trees are copper soap -- aka copper octanoate -- or copper ammonium, a fixed copper fungicide. Apply either of these copper products with 1% horticultural oil to increase effectiveness.)
* When forced bulbs sprout, move them to a cool, bright window. Give them a quarter turn each day so the stems will grow straight.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
* Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs.
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladioli for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Plant blooming azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. If you’re shopping for these beautiful landscape plants, you can now find them in full flower at local nurseries.
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