Saturation can lead to crown and root rots long after the rain has stopped
Plant containers usually have drainage built in. But if the drain holes get plugged, as with this young Japanese maple, the plant can develop crown or root rot from pooling water. The same thing on a larger scale can develop with in-ground trees or shrubs. Kathy Morrison
How much rain is too much? It’s a question a lot of us soggy Sacramentans have wondered about lately as we see pools forming in our backyards.
Besides flooding and downed trees, this drenching rain has another impact: Saturated soil.
It can happen in almost any landscape and can have major long-term impacts. Some of those effects won’t be clearly visible for weeks or months to come.
Saturated soil is waterlogged with all its air squeezed out. If soil stays saturated too long, it can promote devastating diseases, leading to the death of trees, shrubs and other plants.
Healthy soil has little pockets of air between the molecules of sand, clay, silt, gravel and rock. Those air pockets supply oxygen to soil microbes that break down organic matter into plant-ready nutrients.
Water also moves through those same pockets of underground space, supplying moisture to those microbes as well as plants. In saturated soil, all those pockets are filled with water with nowhere to go, and the microbes drown.
Usually, the ground is a great place to store rainwater. As it travels down through those layers of sand and gravel, water is naturally filtered. That filtration removes pathogens and pollutants. (That’s important for well water.) Tree roots can tap into the underground reserve. (That’s vital during drought.)
According to university research, pathogens in saturated soil can remain viable and can move hundreds of feet, contaminating nearby drinking water wells and infecting plants. Saturated soil also can lead to septic system failure, backing wastewater into the home and (on the other end of the system) contaminating groundwater.
In home gardens as well as commercial orchards, saturated soil can lead to outbreaks of Phytophthora-related root and crown rot.
“Periods of 18 to 24 hours or more of water-saturated soil favor Phytophthora infections,” say the UC IPM agriculture notes.
The result can be deadly but may not show up until months later. “Generally, crown rots advance rapidly and trees collapse and die soon after the first warm weather of spring,” say the UC IPM ag notes. “Chronic infections, usually of the roots, cause reduction in growth and early senescence (deterioration due to aging) and leaf fall. These trees may have decreased yield and vigor for several years before succumbing to the disease.”
Crown rot pathogens can wait dormant in dry soils for years before being reactivated by saturated soil. I know from experience. After the last major drought ended with huge winter storms, I lost several heritage camellias and a huge rhododendron to crown rot.
“Almost all fruit and nut trees, as well as most ornamental trees and shrubs (including many California natives), can develop Phytophthora rot if soil around the base of the plant remains wet for prolonged periods,” say the UC IPM experts. “In trees and shrubs, the pathogen kills plants by growing from the roots up through the root crown and into the lower trunk, where it kills the inner bark and causes a browning of the outer layer of sapwood.”
When crown rot infects a tree or shrub, the plant may actually look like it’s not getting enough water.
“The leaves of plants affected by Phytophthora rot appear drought stressed,” say the experts. “Trees or plants often wilt and die rapidly with the first warm weather of the season. Leaves may turn dull green, yellow, or in some cases red or purplish. Often, only plants in the most poorly drained area of the field or garden are affected. Phytophthora infections typically kill young trees, because their root systems and crown areas are small compared to those of mature trees.”
This situation underlines the importance of good drainage to soil and garden health. Keep an eye out for areas of the landscape that seem waterlogged. After these storms are over, watch potentially affected plants, too.
Trees and shrubs infected by crown rot tend to develop darkened patches of bark near the soil line.
“At the first signs of above-ground symptoms, examine the tree at the soil line for crown rot,” say the experts. “Carefully cut away bark that looks affected. If crown rot is present, trees can sometimes be saved by removing soil from the base of the tree down to the top of the main roots and allowing the crown tissue to dry out.”
For more information: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74133.html
Note: Some newsletter subscribers did not receive Thursday's blog post. If you are among them, here's a link to the post, on the upcoming Seasonal Winter Ramble.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of April 19
After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!
* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.
* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.
* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.
* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.
* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.
* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.
* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.
* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth