Saturation can lead to crown and root rots long after the rain has stopped
Plant containers usually have drainage built in. But if the drain holes get plugged, as with this young Japanese maple, the plant can develop crown or root rot from pooling water. The same thing on a larger scale can develop with in-ground trees or shrubs. Kathy Morrison
How much rain is too much? It’s a question a lot of us soggy Sacramentans have wondered about lately as we see pools forming in our backyards.
Besides flooding and downed trees, this drenching rain has another impact: Saturated soil.
It can happen in almost any landscape and can have major long-term impacts. Some of those effects won’t be clearly visible for weeks or months to come.
Saturated soil is waterlogged with all its air squeezed out. If soil stays saturated too long, it can promote devastating diseases, leading to the death of trees, shrubs and other plants.
Healthy soil has little pockets of air between the molecules of sand, clay, silt, gravel and rock. Those air pockets supply oxygen to soil microbes that break down organic matter into plant-ready nutrients.
Water also moves through those same pockets of underground space, supplying moisture to those microbes as well as plants. In saturated soil, all those pockets are filled with water with nowhere to go, and the microbes drown.
Usually, the ground is a great place to store rainwater. As it travels down through those layers of sand and gravel, water is naturally filtered. That filtration removes pathogens and pollutants. (That’s important for well water.) Tree roots can tap into the underground reserve. (That’s vital during drought.)
According to university research, pathogens in saturated soil can remain viable and can move hundreds of feet, contaminating nearby drinking water wells and infecting plants. Saturated soil also can lead to septic system failure, backing wastewater into the home and (on the other end of the system) contaminating groundwater.
In home gardens as well as commercial orchards, saturated soil can lead to outbreaks of Phytophthora-related root and crown rot.
“Periods of 18 to 24 hours or more of water-saturated soil favor Phytophthora infections,” say the UC IPM agriculture notes.
The result can be deadly but may not show up until months later. “Generally, crown rots advance rapidly and trees collapse and die soon after the first warm weather of spring,” say the UC IPM ag notes. “Chronic infections, usually of the roots, cause reduction in growth and early senescence (deterioration due to aging) and leaf fall. These trees may have decreased yield and vigor for several years before succumbing to the disease.”
Crown rot pathogens can wait dormant in dry soils for years before being reactivated by saturated soil. I know from experience. After the last major drought ended with huge winter storms, I lost several heritage camellias and a huge rhododendron to crown rot.
“Almost all fruit and nut trees, as well as most ornamental trees and shrubs (including many California natives), can develop Phytophthora rot if soil around the base of the plant remains wet for prolonged periods,” say the UC IPM experts. “In trees and shrubs, the pathogen kills plants by growing from the roots up through the root crown and into the lower trunk, where it kills the inner bark and causes a browning of the outer layer of sapwood.”
When crown rot infects a tree or shrub, the plant may actually look like it’s not getting enough water.
“The leaves of plants affected by Phytophthora rot appear drought stressed,” say the experts. “Trees or plants often wilt and die rapidly with the first warm weather of the season. Leaves may turn dull green, yellow, or in some cases red or purplish. Often, only plants in the most poorly drained area of the field or garden are affected. Phytophthora infections typically kill young trees, because their root systems and crown areas are small compared to those of mature trees.”
This situation underlines the importance of good drainage to soil and garden health. Keep an eye out for areas of the landscape that seem waterlogged. After these storms are over, watch potentially affected plants, too.
Trees and shrubs infected by crown rot tend to develop darkened patches of bark near the soil line.
“At the first signs of above-ground symptoms, examine the tree at the soil line for crown rot,” say the experts. “Carefully cut away bark that looks affected. If crown rot is present, trees can sometimes be saved by removing soil from the base of the tree down to the top of the main roots and allowing the crown tissue to dry out.”
For more information: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74133.html
Note: Some newsletter subscribers did not receive Thursday's blog post. If you are among them, here's a link to the post, on the upcoming Seasonal Winter Ramble.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
Sept. 1: Yarrow an easy-care, sturdy flowering plant
Aug. 25: Crape myrtles, Sacramento's unofficial tree of summer
Aug. 18: Pollinators adore scabiosa, aka pincushion flower
Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact
Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower
July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show
July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)
July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Aug. 30
Enjoy this mild late-summer weather – and get to work!
* September starts another season in the vegetable garden. Now is the time to plant for fall. The warm soil will get these veggies off to a fast start.
* Keep harvesting tomatoes, peppers, squash, melons and eggplant.
* Compost annuals and vegetable crops that have finished producing.
* Cultivate and add compost to the soil to replenish its nutrients for fall and winter vegetables and flowers.
* Fertilize deciduous fruit trees.
* Plant onions, lettuce, peas, radishes, turnips, beets, carrots, bok choy, spinach and potatoes directly into the vegetable beds.
* Transplant cabbage, broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower as well as lettuce seedlings.
* Sow seeds of California poppies, clarkia and African daisies. Transplant cool-weather annuals such as pansies, violas, fairy primroses, calendulas, stocks and snapdragons.
* Divide and replant bulbs, rhizomes and perennials.
* Dig up and divide daylilies as they complete their bloom cycle.
* Divide and transplant peonies that have become overcrowded. Replant with “eyes” about an inch below the soil surface.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Add asparagus to your edible garden
Soggy soil and what to do about it
Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
We don't talk (enough) about beets
Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Enhance your food with edible flowers
Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
How to grow summer salad greens
Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
Help pollinators help your garden
Battling early-season tomato pests
Where are the bees when you need them?
How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
Grow culinary herbs in containers
When to plant summer vegetables
Don't be fooled by these garden myths
Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth