Tips for selecting healthy holiday plants
Poinsettias these days come in many more colors than the classic red, including white, yellow, gold, pink and variegated. Photo courtesy National Garden Bureau
It’s poinsettia season and this Mexican native is everywhere, forced into December bloom. The poinsettias available today are better than the ones sold a generation ago – and it’s not just the wider range of colors.
“Breeders are also enhancing features that make the plants more enjoyable for everyone,” says Diane Blazek, executive director of National Garden Bureau. “They’re developing varieties that bloom earlier, have longer-lasting blooms, and unique bract shapes.”
The bracts – what most people think of as petals – now come curly, skinny or extra wide. No matter the bract shape, the key to selecting a fresh poinsettia that will last until New Year’s is focusing on what’s at that center of those bracts – the small yellow true flowers or cyathia. They should look fresh and not turning brown. Any poinsettias missing those little yellow flowers are past their prime.
The bracts should appear fresh, too, but also notice the dark green leaves lower on the stem. Make sure the foliage looks healthy and not drooping or falling off.
According to experts, the most common problem with poinsettias is overwatering. People kill them with kindness. Take off the foil wrapper or punch holes in the bottom (and place a saucer underneath). Poinsettias – semi-tropical members of the Euphorbia family – demand good drainage and prefer soil on the dry side of moist. Give the plant a drink once a week (or as needed) and don’t let the poinsettia stand in water. The best way to know if your poinsettia needs watering? Pick it up. If it seems light, it’s time to water.
Cold kills poinsettias; they can’t take prolonged temperatures under 50 degrees. So, if decorating with poinsettias outdoors, bring them inside or protect them at night. They prefer bright light and temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees (just like most people do).
Contrary to popular belief, poinsettias are not poisonous – to people, dogs or cats. Studies at Ohio State and Washington State universities debunked myths about poinsettia toxicity. A 50-pound child would need to eat more than 500 poinsettia bracts to reach a toxic level.
That doesn’t mean poinsettias are edible. Their milky sap will cause mouth and skin irritation (and keep any person or animal from munching them).
For more on poinsettia care: https://ucanr.edu/sites/urbanhort/files/80155.pdf
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Garden Checklist for week of May 5
Survey your garden after the May 4 rainstorm. Heavy rain and gusty winds can break the neck of large flowers such as roses. Also:
* Keep an eye on new transplants or seedlings; they could take a pounding from the rain.
* Watch out for powdery mildew. Warmth following moist conditions can cause this fungal disease to “bloom,” too. If you see a leaf that looks like it’s dusted with powdered sugar, snip it off.
* After the storm, start setting out tomato transplants, but wait on the peppers and eggplants (they want warmer nights). Pinch off any flowers on new transplants to make them concentrate on establishing roots instead of setting premature fruit.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.
* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, radishes and squash.
* Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom.
* Don’t wait; plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Harvest cabbage, lettuce, peas and green onions.
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