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Tips for planting trees in Sacramento


Scarlet oak
Fall colors such as the leaves of this scarlet oak ( Quercus coccinea ), photographed in Elk Grove, may inspire you to plant a tree or two this fall. Follow the Sacramento Tree Foundation guidelines to ensure a healthy tree. (Photo credit: UC Master Gardener Jan Fetler)

October is great time to make major (and shady) addition to your landscape

A strong beginning leads to a lifetime of success. That’s particularly true of trees.

It takes a young tree about three full years to establish a strong root system and sturdy trunk. Mistakes made in planting can have major consequences throughout a tree’s life, including premature death.

October is considered the best month to plant a tree in Sacramento. Warm soil and cooler weather help trees put down deep roots.

But most young trees come in 5-gallon pots with few if any instructions.

To get that addition to your landscape off to the best start possible, the Sacramento Tree Foundation offers these tips:

* Remove and discard grass and weeds in a 4-foot-wide circle.

* Dig your hole 4 feet wide and 8 to 10 inches deep. Score the sides of the hole, so the inside of the hole is not smooth.

* Remove the entire root ball from the container. Thoroughly loosen and extend side and bottom roots from the root ball. Cut any roots circling the root ball with a sharp tool.

* Place the root ball in the hole so the root crown (where to trunk meets the roots) is about 1.5 to 2 inches above the surrounding ground level.

* Place the existing soil back in the hole. Do not place grass or weeds or soil amendment in the hole. When backfilling the hole, avoid air pockets by lightly tamping, but don't compact the soil. Refill the hole only up to the top of the root ball.

* Water your newly planted tree deeply after planting.

For more tips and a tree-planting video:
https://www.sactree.com/howtoplant


- Debbie Arrington

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Garden Checklist for week of May 5

Survey your garden after the May 4 rainstorm. Heavy rain and gusty winds can break the neck of large flowers such as roses. Also:

* Keep an eye on new transplants or seedlings; they could take a pounding from the rain.

* Watch out for powdery mildew. Warmth following moist conditions can cause this fungal disease to “bloom,” too. If you see a leaf that looks like it’s dusted with powdered sugar, snip it off.

* After the storm, start setting out tomato transplants, but wait on the peppers and eggplants (they want warmer nights). Pinch off any flowers on new transplants to make them concentrate on establishing roots instead of setting premature fruit.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, radishes and squash.

* Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom.

* Don’t wait; plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Harvest cabbage, lettuce, peas and green onions.

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