First revisions since 2012 reflect rising low temperatures; Sacramento stays in same zone
Colorful lantana, a popular perennial shrub, is more likely to survive Sacramento winters than it would have 20 years ago. Kathy Morrison
What we plant and when are changing. Why? Winter overnight lows aren’t getting as cold as they used to get. The first frost is arriving later.
Both changes affect what we grow. We may not have enough cold to grow certain varieties of peaches and pears, but limes and lantana are a lot more comfortable. These warming shifts didn’t happen quickly, but gradually over years.
With that in mind, the U.S. Department of Agriculture decided it was time to tweak its hardiness zone maps again. The last revision was 2012.
“Overall, the 2023 map is about 2.5 degrees warmer than the 2012 map across the conterminous United States, (the lower 48 states and District of Columbia),” Christopher Daly, director of the PRISM Climate Group and the map's lead author, told reporters this week. “This translated into about half of the country shifting to a warmer 5-degree half zone, and half remaining in the same half zone. The central plains and Midwest generally warmed the most, with the southwestern U.S. warming very little.”
On this latest map, Sacramento stayed in the same zone: 9b. It moved into that zone from 9a in 2012. That’s out of 13 total zones (zone 1 being the coldest), each representing a 10-degree shift in low temperatures. Each zone is divided into A and B half zones, determined by 5-degree increments.
In zone 9b, our extreme low winter temperature is expected to be between 25 and 30 degrees. (Zone 9a gets down to 20 to 25 degrees.)
Sacramento gardeners know this anecdotally. Lantana, for example, has become a local bellwether for winter cold. A magnet for butterflies, this popular low-water perennial shrub can take a light frost, but temperatures under 28 degrees can kill it. In decades past, lantana rarely made it through the winter. Now, most lantana plants survive many years with no problems.
According to the USDA, the hardiness zone map is based on the extreme lowest temperature a region historically averages in winter. It’s not a prediction, but a reflection of past winters – specifically 1991 to 2020. It also doesn’t differentiate from spending 30 nights at 28 degrees or just one night at that temperature. And the zones don’t reflect extremes in daytime temperatures, just the overnight lows.
Why focus on lows? Because cold kills – especially perennials, shrubs and trees. Cold and chill hours (time spent under 45 degrees) also determines whether many plants flower and set fruit.
The USDA tends to tailor its hardiness zones to perennials and fruit.
“All Plant Hardiness Zone Maps (PHZM) should serve as general guides for growing perennial plants,” says the new guidelines. “They are based on the average lowest temperatures, not the lowest ever. Zones in this edition of the USDA PHZM are based on 1991-2020 weather data. This does not represent the coldest it has ever been or ever will be in an area, but it simply is the average lowest winter temperatures for a given location for this 30-year span (1991-2020).”
The USDA adds a caveat to its map drawing: Historic lows can happen any winter.
“Consequently, growing plants at the extreme range of the coldest zone where they are adapted means that they could experience a year with a rare, extreme cold snap that lasts just a day or two, and plants that have thrived happily for several years could be lost,” warns the USDA. “Gardeners need to keep that in mind and understand that past weather records cannot provide a guaranteed forecast for future variations in weather. They should consult with other knowledgeable producers and gardeners e.g., established nurseries or Master Gardeners or extension services with extensive expertise with conditions at their locales.”
The USDA rarely revises its hardiness zone maps. Before 2012, the USDA hardiness zone map was last revised in 1990 as part of a joint project between the USDA and the U.S. National Arboretum, using data from 14,500 weather stations across the country.
The new map pulls data from even more weather stations and other sources. It’s also offered online as an interactive resource. Just plug in your zip code.
Find it here: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
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Garden checklist for week of April 19
After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!
* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.
* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.
* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.
* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.
* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.
* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.
* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.
* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth