Spicy chili with a difference (and it’s not just the cocoa)

The first time I saw Cincinnati chili served, I thought: This is crazy! Chili over spaghetti? And it smells like … chocolate?

But then I tasted it and this chili’s unique blend of a dozen spices and herbs all made sense. The pasta soaks up the flavorful sauce. Although some folks tuck beans under the chili, too, the spaghetti is enough for me.

This chili is more Greek or Mediterranean than Tex-Mex, and intensely aromatic. Unsweetened cocoa (not chocolate) combined with the chili powder reminds me of mole sauce; the cocoa adds a distinctive rich brown color to the chili.

Skyline, a chain of Cincinnati restaurants, made Cincy chili famous, and this recipe is based on best guesses of their secret spice mixture. Skyline also came up with five ways to serve it. For ordering purposes, “1-way” is straight chili; “2-way,” chili on spaghetti; “3-way,” chili, spaghetti and cheddar cheese; “4-way,” chili, spaghetti, cheese, onions OR beans; and “5-way” is the works.

Cincinnati chili

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients:

For chili:

1 pound lean ground beef

Salt and pepper to taste

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

¼ cup red wine

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups diced tomatoes (canned or homegrown)

1 cup water

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

1 tablespoon chili powder

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon ground cloves

½ teaspoon turmeric

½ teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon crushed dried red pepper

1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon honey

For assembly:

1 pound spaghetti

1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

½ cup yellow onion, chopped

2 cups pinto beans, cooked (optional)

Instructions:

In a large heavy pot over medium heat, brown ground beef; season with salt and pepper. While browning, add chopped onion and minced garlic; cook until onions are translucent.

Add red wine to deglaze the pot, scraping up the brown bits stuck to the bottom. Sprinkle flour over the meat-onion mixture; stir. Add diced tomatoes and water; stir to blend. Stir in tomato paste.

Add cocoa powder, chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, turmeric, paprika, red pepper and oregano; stir well. Add vinegar and honey; stir.

Over medium heat, cook chili for 30 to 45 minutes, stirring often, until desired thickness. Add a little water if needed. Adjust seasoning (it may need more salt depending on how much the meat was seasoned while browning).

Cook spaghetti according to package directions. Warm beans.

To serve, put spaghetti in wide shallow bowls. Top with beans, if desired. Cover each serving with several spoonfuls of chili. Top with grated cheese and chopped onion.