It's a Sisyphean battle, but don't surrender
Spurge is a scourge, spreading through microscopic seeds, but when small it can be dug out easily, unlike some weeds. Kathy Morrison
Not everyone hates weeds, I've discovered. Some gardeners have a "live and let live" attitude about the interlopers that shove their way into the garden, squatting next to the dahlias or cozying up to the tomatoes. Some folks even proclaim the beauty of weeds -- those little white flowers of field bindweed, for example. So pretty!
So dastardly, if you ask me.
Strictly speaking, a weed is any plant that grows where you don't want it. A tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima) could be classified as a weed under this definition -- they move in unannounced all the time.
But most of us have garden-variety weeds to deal with: dandelions, crabgrass, nutsedge and the like. Lately, a variety of spurge has been our biggest problem -- my husband spent several hours digging it out of the front yard this past week so he could mow our small lawn without chopping the weeds into bits.
Why bother? The weeds ironically did make the lawn look greener. But, ugh, spurge and many other weeds can take over and choke out desirable plants. Which leads me to all the reasons to keep after weeds, as endless as the task may seem:
1) They're thieves. They suck up water, nutrients and sunlight that could be benefitting a garden's intentional plants.
2) They're opportunists. Given a little room to roam or soil to settle in, they develop tap roots, bulblike "nuts" or runners that take off into all corners. And this makes them tougher to remove.
3) They're thugs. Some such as bindweed can climb, envelop and throttle other plants. Others produce burrs that stick to pets or seeds with nasty thorns strong enough to pop a bicycle tire.
4) They can be outright dangerous. Pokeweed, for example, is toxic to humans and livestock -- all parts of it, not just the pretty berries. It's a perennial that produces a massive taproot that will help the plant grow back after winter.
5) They're hiding places for pests. This is why weeds shouldn't be ignored in winter. They can harbor bad bugs that will move into your ornamental or vegetable garden once the weather warms up.
All that said, into every gardener's life some weeds will sprout. It's part of what we get to share complaints about. So be good Earth residents, folks: Don't use broad-spectrum herbicides against those invaders. Mulch your planting beds. Find an excellent weed digging tool and keep at it. It's good exercise, after all.
Note: If you're interested in learning more about weeds, the UC Integrated Pest Management program website (which includes the links above) is invaluable. Also, check out the latest edition of the UCIPM Home and Garden Pest Newsletter. It includes an article "How can weed control help with wildfire preparedness?" Yes -- a sixth reason to keep after weeds: They can dry out in summer and become easy fuel for fires.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
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Garden checklist for week of May 31
Remember to water early. No more rain is in the immediate forecast.
* It’s not too late to transplant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or other summer favorites. Make sure they stay hydrated.
* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.
* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.
* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias.
* It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.
* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.
* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.
* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.
* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.
* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.
* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.
* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.
* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.
* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.
* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.
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Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
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