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Bumper or bummer? Tomato crops affected by weather swings

Heat spikes dried out flowers or caused plants to abort fruit

On this Chef's Choice Orange tomato plant, one blossom didn't pollinate but others fortunately did. Heat and low humidity affect tomato pollen.

On this Chef's Choice Orange tomato plant, one blossom didn't pollinate but others fortunately did. Heat and low humidity affect tomato pollen. Debbie Arrington

It’s a tale of two harvests. Some Sacramento-area gardeners are having bumper tomato crops. Others, not so much.

Here at Sacramento Digs Gardening, the kitchen counters are covered with big fat slicers. Both Kathy and I have had excellent tomato seasons.

But I’ve heard from several other gardeners who saw their vines struggle.

“My tomato crop is the worst ever this year,” wrote reader Robin Wham. “Are others having this challenge? Was it the long spring?”

Maybe – if tomato vines were planted in March or early April. That long, cool spring with cold soil temperatures did those plants no favors.

Timing and temperature are key to tomato success. When they transplant their tomato seedlings outdoors, gardeners gamble on weather reliability.

This season, later may have been better. Tomatoes planted in mid- to late April and mid-May seemed to produce the most fruit. Their growth spurts and bloom cycles seemed in sync with temperature ups and downs.

April 21 through 29 saw a streak of afternoon days in the 80s – perfect tomato weather. That sweet spot got transplants off to a strong start. (That's when my vines went in the ground.)

But Sacramento started May with another cold streak; overnight lows dipped into the 40s on the first eight out of 11 nights. That challenged plants set out during early May. Tomatoes won’t set if nighttime temperatures are below 55 degrees.

It wasn’t until May 12 when Sacramento finally saw an upswing in temperatures and more typical growing conditions. Tomatoes planted after that date seemed to flourish, too.

June also featured good tomato-growing weather with most afternoons in the 80s. Tomato plants that were mature enough to produce flowers had good fruit set and started producing ripe tomatoes in July.

When it comes to setting fruit, tomatoes are fickle about temperature. Flowers are usually pollinated with the help of a light breeze or the vibration of bumblebees.

Tomato pollen dries out when temperatures are above 95 degrees; it won’t stick. Unpollinated flowers dry up.

Even if pollinated, flowers may drop off in high heat. University of Nevada research showed tomato plants will abort new fruit if exposed to more than four consecutive hours over 100 degrees.

July saw plenty of triple-digit hours. Sacramento reached at least 100 degrees on eight days. Those high temperatures prevented new tomatoes from setting and some vines just shut down completely.

So far in August, we’ve had eight days over 100 degrees. That fried new flowers on the vine. Instead of forming new fruit, they shriveled up and dropped off.

One more factor in tomato set: Fertilizer. Tomatoes that get too much nitrogen produce lots of vine but little fruit. During fruit formation, hold back on fertilizer except for a little bone meal.

As long as vines produce flowers, there’s hope. “Average” days in the 90s are forecast for the remainder of August and through Labor Day weekend, and soil remains warm. Those late summer blooms could produce autumn tomatoes.

Share your tomato updates

How are your tomatoes producing this season? Tell us about your 2023 crop including what and when you planted. We’ll follow up with another report.

Send your tomato updates to: SacDigsGardening@gmail.com.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

FALL

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth

WINTER

March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds

March 4: Potatoes from the garden

Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space

Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting

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Garden checklist for week of Nov. 16

During breaks in the weather, tackle some garden tasks:

* Clear gutters and storm drains.

* Prune dead or broken branches from trees.

* After the storm, seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.

* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.

* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.

* Plant garlic and onions.

* Plant bulbs at two-week intervals to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.

* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.

* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting them. Do leave some (healthy) leaves in the planting beds for wildlife and beneficial insect habitat.

* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.

* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.

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