How to renew vigor of bearded iris, a perfect perennial for Sacramento
This bearded iris managed to poke out a bloom, but it's overcrowded by day lilies. Both are getting divided this month. Debbie Arrington
Did your bearded irises “forget” to bloom this year? It’s time to divide.
Bearded irises tend to overcrowd their rhizomes – their thick fleshy roots. Like writhing snakes, the rhizomes twist and turn over each other. If they get too crowded, they won’t bloom.
The more winter water they get, the more the rhizomes seem to grow. After last winter’s storms, my irises had quite a growth spurt. They produced loads of lush foliage, but scant blooms – because I hadn’t divided them lately.
In the Sacramento region, bearded irises should be divided every three to five years. If your bearded irises have not bloomed in more than a year (but still look relatively healthy), it’s time to dig them up.
Rhizomes also will grow right into walls or edging until they can’t grow any more. And it’s the new rhizome growth that produces bloom stems.
Native to the Mediterranean, southern Europe and Germany, bearded irises are ideal for Sacramento’s climate. They need almost no care and little water during our dry summer months. With a little TLC, they come back year after year.
Traditionally, August is the best time to divide and replant irises in Sacramento. With a slight break in the heat expected next week, now may be a good time to tackle your iris beds.
Start by digging up the main clump; some rhizomes will look old and withered. With a sharp clean knife, cut those off and discard.
The other segments can be cut or broken apart. Make sure there’s at least one “fan” of leaves on each segment to be replanted. Trim the leaves to about 4 to 6 inches long. If you know, write on the leaves the iris variety or color. (A Sharpie works well for this.) This helps keep them sorted when you replant – and when you share irises with friends.
You don’t have to divide irises every year, so a little extra effort when you do makes a lasting difference. Even though irises are planted very shallow, dig down at least 10 to 12 inches and work the soil, breaking up any large clumps. (This is especially important in heavy clay soils.) Spade in some well-aged compost and bone meal to promote big flowers and root development.
Irises appreciate good drainage and full sun. If your soil is heavy clay, add some coarse sand along with the compost and bone meal. Don’t use high-nitrogen fertilizers on irises; it promotes lots of leaves but no flowers.
To replant, form two parallel trenches with a ridge down the middle. Put the rhizomes on top of the ridge with their stringy roots running down into the trenches on either side. Space each rhizome about 12 to 18 inches apart.
The plants will grow (and rhizomes increase) in the direction the fans of leaves are pointing. Arrange the rhizomes so their fans are all pointing (at least generally) the same direction; that keeps them from overcrowding too quickly. If arranged in a circle, place the fans pointing away from the center.
Once placed, gently press the rhizomes into that ridge, making sure the top of the rhizomes will be just above soil level. Then, fill in the side trenches with soil.
Water deeply – and wait. The rhizomes will start producing fresh leaves in early fall. Water the plants occasionally so they don’t dry out, but otherwise leave them alone.
Remember to share some of those freshly dug irises with friends. One large clump can produce several new plants – many more than is needed to replant the same space. Those extra rhizomes should be replanted within two weeks. If not transplanted in the ground, those excess irises can be transplanted in pots. They’ll bloom – as long as their rhizomes have room.
For more on irises: www.irises.org.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower
July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show
July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)
July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
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Garden checklist for week of Aug. 2
Get out early in the morning and monitor your garden’s moisture needs. Deep water and add temporary shade structures for plants that are feeling a little burned. In particular, protect developing peppers and eggplant.
* Put off fertilization until this heat passes; plants need to concentrate on hydration instead of growth.
* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers.
* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.
* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don’t let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.
* Pinch off dead flowers from perennials and annuals to lengthen their summer bloom.
* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot.
* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.
* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.
* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.
* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips. Make sure to keep seeds and seedlings consistently moist.
* Plant potatoes.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth