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Bearded iris didn't bloom? Time to divide

How to renew vigor of bearded iris, a perfect perennial for Sacramento

This bearded iris managed to poke out a bloom, but it's overcrowded by day lilies. Both are getting divided this month.

This bearded iris managed to poke out a bloom, but it's overcrowded by day lilies. Both are getting divided this month. Debbie Arrington

Did your bearded irises “forget” to bloom this year? It’s time to divide.

Bearded irises tend to overcrowd their rhizomes – their thick fleshy roots. Like writhing snakes, the rhizomes twist and turn over each other. If they get too crowded, they won’t bloom.

The more winter water they get, the more the rhizomes seem to grow. After last winter’s storms, my irises had quite a growth spurt. They produced loads of lush foliage, but scant blooms – because I hadn’t divided them lately.

In the Sacramento region, bearded irises should be divided every three to five years. If your bearded irises have not bloomed in more than a year (but still look relatively healthy), it’s time to dig them up.

Rhizomes also will grow right into walls or edging until they can’t grow any more. And it’s the new rhizome growth that produces bloom stems.

Native to the Mediterranean, southern Europe and Germany, bearded irises are ideal for Sacramento’s climate. They need almost no care and little water during our dry summer months. With a little TLC, they come back year after year.

Traditionally, August is the best time to divide and replant irises in Sacramento. With a slight break in the heat expected next week, now may be a good time to tackle your iris beds.

Start by digging up the main clump; some rhizomes will look old and withered. With a sharp clean knife, cut those off and discard.

The other segments can be cut or broken apart. Make sure there’s at least one “fan” of leaves on each segment to be replanted. Trim the leaves to about 4 to 6 inches long. If you know, write on the leaves the iris variety or color. (A Sharpie works well for this.) This helps keep them sorted when you replant – and when you share irises with friends.

You don’t have to divide irises every year, so a little extra effort when you do makes a lasting difference. Even though irises are planted very shallow, dig down at least 10 to 12 inches and work the soil, breaking up any large clumps. (This is especially important in heavy clay soils.) Spade in some well-aged compost and bone meal to promote big flowers and root development.

Irises appreciate good drainage and full sun. If your soil is heavy clay, add some coarse sand along with the compost and bone meal. Don’t use high-nitrogen fertilizers on irises; it promotes lots of leaves but no flowers.

To replant, form two parallel trenches with a ridge down the middle. Put the rhizomes on top of the ridge with their stringy roots running down into the trenches on either side. Space each rhizome about 12 to 18 inches apart.

The plants will grow (and rhizomes increase) in the direction the fans of leaves are pointing. Arrange the rhizomes so their fans are all pointing (at least generally) the same direction; that keeps them from overcrowding too quickly. If arranged in a circle, place the fans pointing away from the center.

Once placed, gently press the rhizomes into that ridge, making sure the top of the rhizomes will be just above soil level. Then, fill in the side trenches with soil.

Water deeply – and wait. The rhizomes will start producing fresh leaves in early fall. Water the plants occasionally so they don’t dry out, but otherwise leave them alone.

Remember to share some of those freshly dug irises with friends. One large clump can produce several new plants – many more than is needed to replant the same space. Those extra rhizomes should be replanted within two weeks. If not transplanted in the ground, those excess irises can be transplanted in pots. They’ll bloom – as long as their rhizomes have room.

For more on irises: www.irises.org.

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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth