Easy irrigation method: Use a bucket with a hole in it
A bucket with a hole (taped over until ready to use) makes an easy, slow irrigation aid for a small tree. Photo courtesy Sacramento Tree Foundation
Something to think about while taking a break in the shade: Our trees are a lot better off this summer than they were last year.
Summer of 2022 capped three years of epic drought. Summer of 2023 follows one of Sacramento’s wettest winters on record.
So heading into this very hot July, our trees had some reserves they didn’t have last summer. Heavy winter rain gave them a deep, lasting soaking. A cooler-than-average spring helped them grow.
“Most trees are doing a lot better – they’re showing a lot of growth and look very healthy,” says Alex Binck, community arborist for the Sacramento Tree Foundation. “Especially trees that have been in decline for the last several years such as redwoods; those trees are flush with new growth and just look a lot more green.”
The task this summer is helping those trees maintain their recent health gains. Sacramento’s notorious heat can bake away soil moisture quickly.
“We had a phenomenal year with a lot of rainfall and soil moisture,” Binck notes, “but we had years of moisture deficit. We’ll be back into dry conditions by late summer. There definitely will be soil stress by the end of summer.”
Trees – especially younger or newly transplanted trees – are at their most vulnerable when weather changes from cool to hot rapidly – which we have seen this past month. “Especially that first big heat wave after nice, cool weather,” Binck says. “Look at temperatures and increase irrigation if temperatures are going to spike.
“Trees seem to adapt to temperature changes over time, but that first heat can be challenging,” he adds. “With climate change, we expect to see more dramatic swings. For trees, dramatic swings can be more stressful.”
During July and August, young trees and recent transplants are the most in need of extra irrigation. According to SacTree experts, young trees need an extra 10 to 15 gallons of water a week in summer to get established and put down deep roots. The simplest way is to use a bucket with a hole in it.
The bucket method – applying water via a 5-gallon bucket – allows water to soak in slowly even in Sacramento’s heavy clay soils. If you just pour 5 gallons of water on the ground next to the tree, it will run off instead of soaking in. With a hose, it’s just a guess how much water you’re applying.
SacTree staff experimented and found a single 1/8-inch hole – located on the bucket’s side about 1 inch above the bottom – was most effective in delivering water at just the right rate. On the bottom, the hole got clogged with dirt. Multiple or bigger holes, the water drained too fast.
How do you use a bucket with a hole in it? Cover the hole with duct tape, fill the bucket, put in place, then remove the tape.
Place the bucket close, within a foot of the trunk, to newly planted trees; their root ball still hasn’t spread out. Alternate sides with each bucket application. As the tree grows, move the bucket farther away from the trunk. The feeder roots that need the extra water most are located along the dripline at the edges of a tree’s canopy.
In the first year, give a young tree an extra 5 gallons two or three times a week, SacTree recommends. In the second year, make it 10 gallons once a week. At three years, increase the extra water allowance to 15 gallons but apply it every other week.
Mature trees benefit from extra irrigation, too. Instead of a bucket, use a soaker hose encircling the tree at its dripline and set a timer for one hour. Do that once a month.
Here are more tips to help your trees through the heat of summer:
* Irrigate thoughtfully. Check soil moisture with a probe or moisture meter before automatically turning on the sprinklers. Trees prefer deep, infrequent irrigation; it encourages deep roots.
* Remember to water trees at their dripline – the farthest reach of their foliage – and not their trunks; their thirsty roots are at that outer edge.
* To retain moisture during hot summer months, make sure to mulch. Binck recommends wood chips such as those available free from SMUD. Leave a wide circle around trunks to avoid crown rot.
For more tree tips: https://sactree.org.
Comments
0 comments have been posted.Sacramento Digs Gardening to your inbox.
Flowers in My Back Yard Series
Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact
Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower
July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show
July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)
July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Aug. 9
During this break in the heat, fertilize your garden. Make sure to water before and after applying fertilizer.
*Feed citrus trees their last round of fertilizer for the year. This will give a boost to the fruit that’s now forming.
* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers. Also, give them a boost with phosphate-rich fertilizer to help fruiting.
* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.
* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don't let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.
* Camellia leaves looking a little yellow? Feed them some chelated iron. That goes for azaleas and gardenias, too.
* Pinch off dead flowers from perennials and annuals to lengthen their summer bloom.
* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot. Then feed fruit trees with slow-release fertilizer for better production for next year.
* To prolong bloom into fall, feed begonias, fuchsias, annuals and container plants. Always water before fertilizing.
* Fertilize fall-blooming perennials, too. Chrysanthemums can be fed until the buds start to open.
* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials, then give them a boost of fertilizer. Make sure to water plants before feeding. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.
* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.
* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.
* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips.
* Plant potatoes.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Add asparagus to your edible garden
Soggy soil and what to do about it
Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
We don't talk (enough) about beets
Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Enhance your food with edible flowers
Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
How to grow summer salad greens
Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
Help pollinators help your garden
Battling early-season tomato pests
Where are the bees when you need them?
How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
Grow culinary herbs in containers
When to plant summer vegetables
Don't be fooled by these garden myths
Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth