Overloaded branches can break under the weight
How not to grow peaches: This tree at Cal Expo last July should have thinned months earlier. The guide: A hand's width between fruit. Kathy Morrison
The pride of fruit tree gardeners in their crop is something to see. After all, they've battled gusty winds, late frosts, a lack of pollinators, weather-borne diseases -- and that's before the fruit ripens, when the birds and squirrels come after it. On top of this, why would they want to thin that crop they're so proud of?
Because an overloaded fruit tree is a stressed tree, and it might break under all that weight.
Last summer, the Sacramento County master gardeners who worked at the State Fair could not get over the predicament of the little peach tree that was just a few feet from their booth. It had never been thinned that year, and was jammed with ripening fruit. It looked uncomfortable at the very least. Fruit that touches while growing like that also makes it easier for diseases or pests to spread through the crop.
On a much bigger tree, that crop could bring down a branch or even split the tree. The full-size fruit trees in the back of The Farm area were just as jammed. (Also disease-ridden, but that's a post for another day.) Fortunately, there are few walkways back in that area, so fairgoers weren't in too much danger from falling branches.
Here's "The Home Orchard," the UCCE master gardeners' guide, spearheaded by the late Chuck Ingels, on the subject:
"A tree's leaves supply energy for growth; if there are not enough leaves to support the number of fruit that set, the fruit will, in effect, compete with each other for carbohydrates and so remain small. ... Although thinning reduces the number of fruit and total yield, it improves the size and quality of fruit."
Most stone fruits except cherries require thinning most years. Fruit can be thinned any time from just after bloom to a few weeks before harvest, "The Home Orchard" notes. The book suggests April to mid-May (ahem, now) as the best time to thin, when fruit are big enough to assess but not so big that you risk breaking branches.
Peaches or nectarines on a healthy tree growing under ideal weather conditions should be thinned to 5 to 7 inches apart (about a hand's width), the book notes. Apricots and hybrids such as apriums are smaller, so 3 to 5 inches apart is recommended, and 4 to 6 inches for plums and pluots. Get rid of one of the "doubles" that develop and retain the largest fruit. Toss rejects into the organic waste bin.
So buck up, fruit growers -- bravely thin those unripe peaches and plums now. Your tree will thank you later.
For more on orchard tree care, visit https://sacmg.ucanr.edu/Fruit_and_nuts/ on the Sacramento County master gardeners' website.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
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Garden checklist for week of June 14
We'll be back to normal temperatures for mid-June (about 86 degrees) by Thursday. In the meanwhile:
* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.
* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.
* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.
* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.
* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.
* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.
* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.
* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.
* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.
* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don't let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.
* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.
* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.
* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.
* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.
* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.
* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes. There’s still time to plant melons, pumpkins and squash from seed.
* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, bidens, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
Rather than toss those little green peaches, make them into refrigerator pickles. This is the first year I've attempted this and they are still 3 weeks from being ready to test, but I'm happy that there is a use for them other than as compost. The recipes I followed came from the Crafty Cookery website - one sweet, one savory. Note that these are not processed and thus must be stored in the refrigerator, so be sure you can dedicate the space to it before starting. There is not safe tested recipe for processed green peach pickles. At least not yet.
Cool idea! I've made other refrigerator pickles. Will have to check out that website.