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Feed me! How to fertilize roses for more blooms

Put your roses on a regular diet with monthly feeding (plus snacks)

This Night Owl climbing rose appreciates its blanket of compost and mulch.

This Night Owl climbing rose appreciates its blanket of compost and mulch. Debbie Arrington

With rapid spring growth, my whole rose garden seems to be screaming: Feed me!

With moist soil and relatively mild weather conditions in the forecast, now is a good time to fertilize roses as they sprout new canes, lush foliage and their first wave of flowers.

But what to feed them? How do you fertilize roses in spring to support growth as well as prompt flowers?

Combine nourishment with weed control. For starters, use a combination of compost or other organic amendments and mulch.

“Apply organic soil amendments – such as (aged) horse manure, alfalfa meal, etc. – around the drip line of each of the roses,” instructs master rosarian Baldo Villegas, who grows more than 2,000 bushes in his Orangevale garden. “Some rosarians apply two inches of mushroom compost and another two inches of mulch for a total of four inches throughout whole garden bed to feed the soil, prevent weeds and preserve water moisture in the soil.”

Alfalfa meal (available at nurseries) or alfalfa pellets (available from feed stores) give roses an early burst of nitrogen – a must for new foliage. When buying alfalfa pellets, make sure it’s plain alfalfa and not amended with other ingredients such as molasses; rabbits may appreciate those extras, but they’ll just attract ants in the rose bed.

The mulch acts as a protective blanket around the bush. It speeds the decomposition of the alfalfa or manure underneath as well as smothers weeds – a big help for gardeners as well as roses. Mulch also conserves water, warms the soils, keeps roots comfortable, discourages fungal disease outbreaks and promotes healthy soil.

What mulch do roses prefer? Ground bark or dried leaves work best. Avoid rocks or gravel; they add nothing to the soil in the way of nutrients and, because they absorb heat, they can cook roots in summer. Rocks also tend to reflect heat onto the bush, further stressing the plant.

After that initial compost-mulch blanket, put your roses on a regular diet. Once a month, apply a slow-release rose food. Look for products with more phosphorus (the middle number of the three macronutrients listed on fertilizer bags) than nitrogen (the first number); phosphorus supports flowers while nitrogen prompts more leaves. Scatter fertilizer around bushes and water it in. Or use a liquid fertilizer and apply while watering. Never fertilize roses in dry soil; it can burn the foliage.

Roses can benefit from bone meal (an excellent source of phosphorus). After deadheading (removing spent blooms), scatter a few tablespoons of bone meal around the bush and work into soil. (You may need to pull the mulch away from the bush first.)

Other “snacks” to feed your roses: Fish emulsion and worm castings. Master rosarian Charlotte Owendyk of Roseville uses both. Applied while watering, nutrient-packed fish emulsion can give a weak or sluggish grower a little extra boost. Worm castings – and even better, active earthworms – help overall soil health.

Time extra fertilization to when you want the most blooms. After their first big bloom in April, roses tend to take six to eight weeks to produce another flush of flowers. If you want roses on July Fourth (for example), deadhead and feed the first week of May.

Keep up your rose feeding schedule until fall. In October, start cutting back fertilizer (or skip altogether) so your bushes will begin to ease into winter dormancy.

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Garden checklist for week of July 12

Get out early in the morning to take care of garden chores. Temperatures are expected to stay below 80 degrees before 10 a.m.

* Remember to water early and deep; your garden depends on you.

* It’s not too late to add a splash of color. Plant petunias, snapdragons, zinnias and marigolds.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, winter squash and sunflowers.

* Keep your vegetable garden watered, mulched and weeded. Water before 8 a.m. to reduce the chance of fungal infection and to conserve moisture.

* Water before fertilizing vegetables and blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs to give them a boost. Feeding flowering plants every other week will extend their bloom.

* Feed vegetable plants bone meal or other fertilizers high in phosphate to stimulate more blooms and fruiting.

* Don’t let tomatoes wilt or dry out completely. Give tomatoes a deep watering two to three times a week. Harvest vegetables promptly to encourage plants to produce more. Squash especially tends to grow rapidly in hot weather. Keep an eye on zucchini.

* If your melons and squash aren’t setting fruit, give the bees a hand. With a small, soft paintbrush, gather some pollen from male flowers, then brush it inside the female flowers, which have a tiny swelling at the base of their petals. (That's the embryo melon or squash.) Within days, that little swelling should start growing.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushy plants and more flowers in September.

* Remove spent flowers from roses, daylilies and other bloomers as they finish flowering.

* Pinch off blooms from basil so the plant will grow more leaves.

* Cut back lavender after flowering to promote a second bloom.

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Taste Fall! E-cookbook

Muffins and pumpkin

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Taste Winter! E-cookbook

Lemon coconut pancakes

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth