Flavor of oranges may actually get a boost from 'kiss of cold'
Our warmer afternoons have prompted some fruit trees to push out blossoms already, such as on this multi-grafted fruit salad tree, photographed Feb. 11 at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center. But freezing temperatures could threaten any eventual crop. Kathy Morrison
Our afternoons may feel like spring, but frost danger is still in our forecast. And that creates some challenges for Sacramento-area gardeners: All that tender new growth may need protection.
The National Weather Service warns of “widespread frost” on Thursday and Saturday morning in the greater Sacramento area and foothills. Overnight lows are expected to dip into the low 30s if not below freezing.
Frost threatens not only new shoots but tender blossoms and buds. Sacramento reached 71 degrees on Sunday, Feb. 12. Such warm weather coaxed out early blooms on some fruit trees. Frost can cause those blossoms to fall quickly without setting fruit.
Likewise, frost can burn newly rooted cuttings or transplanted seedlings – even if the temperature stays above 32 degrees. Protect these babies with row covers or “hot caps” – mini-greenhouses made of waxed paper or improvised with plastic milk jugs (with the bottom cut out).
A clear night with no wind can actually produce more frost damage than a windy night at the same temperature. According to university research, foliage temperatures on citrus trees were three to four degrees lower than surrounding air temperature on clear, windless nights. So, 34 degrees could actually feel like 30 to a tender lime or lemon. Young trees are most susceptible to cold damage.
Most citrus is OK down to 30 degrees. Some “chill hours” – time spent under 45 degrees but above freezing – may actually improve the flavor and quality of ripening oranges. That “kiss of cold” brings out the sugars while toughening the skin, extending the fruit’s longevity on and off the tree.
One of the easiest ways to protect sensitive plants: Water. Irrigate your garden before a frost warning; moist soil radiates heat and offers some frost insurance. (The exception are succulents; they soak up that extra moisture and can actually burst if their cells freeze.)
What if a tree or shrub has already suffered frost damage? Leave it on the plant for a few more weeks; it can protect the plant from further damage.
This frost warning is later than usual for Sacramento. After decades of recommending a “last frost” date of mid March, most experts now cut off our frost period at the end of January. According to the Sacramento County master gardeners, our average last frost date is Jan. 27.
But in 2022, Sacramento hit 32 degrees on Feb. 24 and dipped down to 35 degrees on March 6. Our latest ever freeze on record (30 degrees) hit March 27, 1898.
Surrounding communities need to watch out for frost and freeze much later than Sacramento with some areas under threat well into spring. The master gardeners list last frost dates for Marysville (March 16), Lodi (March 31), Woodland (April 1), Auburn (April 13), Davis (April 18), Placerville (May 18) and Nevada City (June 4).
For more tips on frost protection: https://sacmg.ucanr.edu/Frost_Protection/.
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Garden checklist for week of Feb. 8
Dodge those raindrops and get things done! Your garden needs you.
* Start your spring (and summer) garden. Transplant or direct-seed several flowers, including snapdragon, candytuft, lilies, astilbe, larkspur, Shasta and painted daisies, stocks, bleeding heart and coral bells.
* In the vegetable garden, plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers, and strawberry and rhubarb roots. Transplant cabbage and its close cousins – broccoli, kale and Brussels sprouts – as well as lettuce (both loose leaf and head).
* Indoors, start peppers, tomatoes and eggplant from seed.
* Plant artichokes, asparagus and horseradish from root divisions. Plant potatoes from tubers and onions from sets (small bulbs). The onions will sprout quickly and can be used as green onions in March.
* From seed, plant beets, chard, lettuce, mustard, peas, radishes and turnips.
* Annuals are showing up in nurseries, but wait until the weather warms up a bit before planting. Instead, set out flowering perennials such as columbine and delphinium.
* Plant summer-flowering bulbs including cannas, calla lilies and gladiolus.
* This is the last chance to spray fruit trees before they bloom. Treat peach and nectarine trees with copper-based fungicide. Spray apricot trees at bud swell to prevent brown rot. Apply horticultural oil to control scale, mites and aphids on fruit trees soon after a rain. But remember: Oils need at least 24 hours to dry to be effective. Don’t spray during foggy weather or when rain is forecast.
* Feed spring-blooming shrubs and fall-planted perennials with slow-release fertilizer. Feed mature trees and shrubs after spring growth starts.
* Remove aphids from blooming bulbs with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap.
* Fertilize strawberries and asparagus.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth