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Fog and cold lead to attack of gray mold

Botrytis outbreak on roses, poinsettias follows chilly, damp weather

This Marilyn Monroe rose is showing early signs of botrytis: The red spots are the symptoms.

This Marilyn Monroe rose is showing early signs of botrytis: The red spots are the symptoms. Debbie Arrington

Sacramento experienced record cold weather this past weekend and thick damp fog that seemed to just hang around.

How will this combination of cold and damp affect our gardens? A rapid shutdown to dormancy. Any fall foliage clinging to branches is dropping now.

A pale peach rose with grey mold on petal edges
Gray mold turns petals to mush.

This weather also kicks some fungal diseases into high gear. My roses saw a massive attack of botrytis – gray mold – and it’s not pretty.

According to the National Weather Service, downtown Sacramento recorded lows of 32 degrees on Dec. 17 and 18 – records for both dates. With relentless fog, Sunday (Dec. 18) was the coldest day in downtown Sacramento since January 2001; the high topped out at 42.

The fog is linked to all our ground moisture, thanks to recent rains. Lack of wind and sun keeps the fog trapped close to the ground. And that fog creates ideal conditions for gray mold.

Gray mold – which actually looks more tan or brown on the rosebud – needs moisture for growth in plant tissues, particularly tender flower petals. To prevent outbreaks, keep flower buds dry. That’s all but impossible on damp, foggy days.

Thanks to dry and warm fall weather, I had dozens of rose buds in my garden and was hoping to make some Christmas bouquets. But after so much fog and frosty nights, I’ll have few if any roses for my holiday table.

Gray mold starts out looking like pink measles or brownish water spots on light-colored flowers. Those brown spots rapidly grow until the fungus consumes the whole petal. The flower never fully opens.

Another victim to gray mold this season: Poinsettias. If left outside, they turn to mush.

Gray mold also attacks African violet, asters, begonia, carnation, chrysanthemum, cyclamen, cymbidium, gerbera, geranium, gladiolus, hydrangea, marigolds, orchids, petunia, primrose, ranunculus, snapdragon, zinnias and many other garden favorites.

According to UC Integrated Pest Management program, the best control of gray mold is “good sanitation.” Clip off infected blooms, put them in a plastic bag and dispose of them in the trash. Do not compost them; that just recycles the spores back into the garden. Pick up fallen blooms and petals around the bush and dispose of them, too.

(Since this is already pruning time, I’ll remove those infected blooms in a pass through my garden before I tackle pruning the canes.)

After pruning, rake out old mulch and fallen foliage. (This contains other fungal spores, too, for powdery mildew, rust, black spot and other rose diseases.) Then, dispose of that old mulch and replace it with fresh mulch.

For more information on gray mold, check out these pest notes from UC IPM: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r280100511.html

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Garden Checklist for week of Jan. 12

Once the winds die down, it’s good winter gardening weather with plenty to do:

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees. (The exceptions are apricot and cherry trees, which are susceptible to a fungus that causes dieback. Save them until summer.) Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* After the wind stops, apply horticultural oil to fruit trees to control scale, mites and aphids. Oils need 24 hours of dry weather after application to be effective.

* This is also the time to spray a copper-based fungicide to peach and nectarine trees to fight leaf curl. (The safest effective fungicides available for backyard trees are copper soap -- aka copper octanoate -- or copper ammonium, a fixed copper fungicide. Apply either of these copper products with 1% horticultural oil to increase effectiveness.)

* When forced bulbs sprout, move them to a cool, bright window. Give them a quarter turn each day so the stems will grow straight.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

* Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs.

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladioli for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Plant blooming azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. If you’re shopping for these beautiful landscape plants, you can now find them in full flower at local nurseries.

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