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Are you ready for a big chill? How about your plants?

Prepare for frost with these handy tips

Harvest ripe fall fruit, such as persimmons, that may be damaged by frost.

Harvest ripe fall fruit, such as persimmons, that may be damaged by frost. Kathy Morrison

After a very warm October, we’re now shivering at night.

It may seem extra early, but frost is in the forecast for the next several nights – especially in the foothills. Downtown Sacramento is expected to see overnight lows dipping into the low 30s.

It’s a shock to our systems – and our plants, too. October averaged afternoon highs of almost 83 degrees – four degrees above normal. Three weeks ago, we were still seeing days in the high 80s.

Storms earlier this week dropped 0.97 inches on Sacramento – and kept overnight temperatures in the upper 40s. But with clear skies come cold nights. According to the National Weather Service, Sacramento can expect lows in the 30s all next week with frost warnings early Monday and Tuesday.

In several recent years, Sacramento’s first frost hasn’t hit until mid- to late December. But historically, frost can bite us any time between early November and the first day of spring. In 2020, we had our first frost warning Nov. 10, although actual freezing temperatures didn’t hit until two weeks later.

Like any challenge, it’s best to be prepared. Have your frost cloths handy and be ready to bundle up your garden when the forecast predicts 32 degrees or colder. Especially at risk are new transplants.

Keep these frost tips handy, too:

* If there is a frost warning, cover your sensitive plants with frost cloth, blankets or cloth sheets (not plastic) before sunset so radiant heat will help keep them cozy.

* Remember to uncover plants during the day (especially if it’s sunny) or they can be smothered by their frost protection.

* Harvest ripe fruit that may be harmed by frost. Don't let pomegranates and persimmons freeze on the tree. The same goes for early citrus such as lemons, limes or mandarins.

* Citrus trees (particularly young trees) tend to be susceptible to frost damage. Limes are the most frost tender. Make sure they get some protection before frost hits.

* Wrap trunks of young citrus trees to insulate them from frost.

* Holiday lightsthe old-fashioned kind that get hot, not LEDs – can help keep plants warm, too. Wrap a string of lights around the trunk and branches. Keep the lights on all night.

* With some exceptions, keep plants watered. Frost injury occurs when ice crystals form on leaf surfaces and draw moisture out of the leaf. The damage from dehydration is what causes frost burn.

* The exemption to this rule are cacti and succulents, where saturation can cause more damage. Also, such tropical plants as bananas and hibiscus may rot if over-saturated before frost, so they prefer to be kept on the dry side.

* Don’t overprotect. Plants are more frost resistant if they’ve experienced some cold weather and winter hardening.

* If frost damage occurs, wait until March or April to prune off browned branches. That injured area will help protect the rest of the plant from further frost burn.

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Garden Checklist for week of Jan. 19

Dress warmly in layers – and get to work:

* Apply horticultural oil to fruit trees to control scale, mites and aphids. Oils need 24 hours of dry weather after application to be effective.

* This is also the time to spray a copper-based oil to peach and nectarine trees to fight leaf curl. The safest effective fungicides available for backyard trees are copper soap -- aka copper octanoate -- or copper ammonium, a fixed copper fungicide. Apply either of these copper products with 1% horticultural oil to increase effectiveness.

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease. (The exceptions are apricot and cherry trees, which are susceptible to a fungus that causes dieback if pruned now. Save those until summer.)

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* When forced bulbs sprout, move them to a cool, bright window. Give them a quarter turn each day so the stems will grow straight.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

* Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs.

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladioli for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Plant blooming azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. If you’re shopping for these beautiful landscape plants, you can now find them in full flower at local nurseries.

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