'Blind shoots' are the result of spring temperature fluctuations
Miss Congeniality, a grandiflora rose, has a blind shoot where a bud should have been. Debbie Arrington
An odd phenomenon is happening in my Sacramento rose garden – and I’m sure I’m not alone.
Where there should be buds, there are only stubs.
Those are “blind shoots,” growth that never produces a flower.
Due to our roller-coaster spring weather, my roses started their big spring bloom about two to three weeks later than normal. That meant they hit their first peak of bloom in May, not April.
I’m currently in my first big round of “dead heading,” snipping off spent blooms. As I removed those faded flowers, I noticed many, many stems with blind shoots.
The stems look healthy with lots of foliage and fast growth. But no matter how long those stems grow, they won’t sprout a bloom.
Blind shoots are the result of extreme fluctuations in temperature and growing conditions. Our yo-yo
weather in April and May confused many bushes, especially when temperatures plunged back below normal.
Another oddity: Blind shoots can appear on the same bush with normal blooming stems.
Some rose varieties are more sensitive to temperature fluctuations than others. In the last two weeks, I’ve seen blind shoots on more than 100 bushes in my own garden. They’re appeared on almost every hybrid tea in my garden as well as most of the floribundas and many miniatures. Even the David Austin shrub roses have blind shoots.
This is a condition on modern reblooming roses, which covers most varieties commonly grown in home gardens. (Old garden varieties introduced more than a century ago include many once-blooming roses such as ‘Lady Banks’ banksia roses; their growth after initial spring bloom is all foliage, no buds.)
Fortunately, the cure for blind shoots is easy: Prune them off. Restart the growth by cutting the cane or shoot back about 5 or 6 inches, snipping about 1/2-inch above a leaf with five leaflets.
Modern roses rebloom in warm months six to eight weeks after deadheading. So, trimming off those spent flowers and blind shoots now should produce a fresh wave of flowers in mid to late July.
Rose bushes need more nutrients for that next round of flowers. After deadheading, deep water and feed roses a balanced fertilizer. (Always water before feeding to prevent foliage burn.)
If possible, put down a 1-inch layer of aged compost around bushes. That mulch both feeds the plant as well as maintains soil moisture and keeps roots comfortable during hot days to come.
How much water do roses need? During summer, a full-size hybrid tea requires about 5 gallons of water per week. If using drip irrigation, roses do best with at least two or three emitters, spaced on either side of the bush. That gets water to all its roots, not just on one side.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
WINTER:
Jan. 20: Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18
Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
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