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Summer is upon us -- do you have your tool kit?

Be prepared for quick fixes and managing garden info

These ripening "Babycakes" blackberries are protected from birds and other critters with a length of tulle, which is lighter than bird netting and less likely to trap small birds.

These ripening "Babycakes" blackberries are protected from birds and other critters with a length of tulle, which is lighter than bird netting and less likely to trap small birds. Kathy Morrison

Memorial Day weekend signals the start of summer around here, whatever the weather is doing at the time.

The next few days are perfect for putting together a summer tool kit -- garden hacks, in some cases -- that will get the plants and you through the worst that summer can dish out. (We hope, at least.)

1. A soil moisture meter. Preferably a good one, with a long spike, that will show the soil moisture level all the way down. (Example, if the top is wet, but 6 inches down is dry and 10 inches down is middling wet, you'll see that.) Years ago I got a tip about the Reotemp moisture meter, and I've become an advocate for it ever since. The meter runs on batteries, the sturdy spike is 17.5 inches long, and the information is viewed on top of the box, not on the side. Pricey but an invaluable tool.

Note: Many of the meters available out there only can be read from the side. Those are better than nothing, but the gardener needs to be very agile or very short to read ones stuck in the ground or a low pot. 

Why it's important: Drowning plants is costly, and wastes water. Knowing whether the soil is really dry, or just looks dry on top, is crucial to proper irrigation levels. (There should be mulch on that soil too, by the way.)

2. Clothes pins or binder clips. Instant attachments are possible but not permanent with these handy items. I clip stems to stakes, shade cloth to cages, and tulle (see below) to itself when wrapping a plant.

3. Tulle. Lighter and cheaper than bird netting, this fabric (often used in wedding veils) is ideal for wrapping a berry-laden bush (using those clothes pins) or providing some quick cover for a newly repotted plant. Bonus: The fabric is washable and reusable.

4. Small wire trash bins. These are usually available cheaply at dollar stores, and they come in a few sizes. Perfect for protecting plants from marauding critters, especially held down with those metal staples used with landscape cloth.

5.  Irrigation repair items. Even if someone else installed the dripline system, a gardener should have on hand enough pieces to make a quick repair. These should include plugs, a few feet of the 1/4-inch tubing, some connector pieces (straight and T-shape), and clamps for a quick shutoff of a blown-out line. Strong scissors also are good to have.

This kit came in handy when my housebound neighbor's dripline blew out right near the sidewalk, sending water pouring down the gutter at 7 a.m.  Once the water shut off, I was able to add a new connector and reattach the line, without her having to call a repair person.

Other items I've found useful over the years:

-- A broken umbrella that still can be opened, to protect a plant suddenly being cooked by the sun. 

-- Unused or too-small tomato cages. Open the umbrella and place it on top of the cage, than position the cage over the suffering plant.

-- Square plant flats. These also work for quick shade; use it with a cage just like the umbrella/cage combo.

-- Plastic gelato containers with lids. Ideal for storing seed pods (such as for California poppies). The jar also makes a great scoop for fertilizer.

-- Newsprint or old newspaper sections. Crumpled, the paper can provide extra insulation around a hot pot, especially if it's set inside an empty larger one. I use sheets of paper inside my worm bin for insulation on top of the worms. Shredded paper also can be used as emergency mulch.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

WINTER:

Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth

WINTER

March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds

March 4: Potatoes from the garden

Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space

Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting

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Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18

Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

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