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Summer is upon us -- do you have your tool kit?

Be prepared for quick fixes and managing garden info

These ripening "Babycakes" blackberries are protected from birds and other critters with a length of tulle, which is lighter than bird netting and less likely to trap small birds.

These ripening "Babycakes" blackberries are protected from birds and other critters with a length of tulle, which is lighter than bird netting and less likely to trap small birds. Kathy Morrison

Memorial Day weekend signals the start of summer around here, whatever the weather is doing at the time.

The next few days are perfect for putting together a summer tool kit -- garden hacks, in some cases -- that will get the plants and you through the worst that summer can dish out. (We hope, at least.)

1. A soil moisture meter. Preferably a good one, with a long spike, that will show the soil moisture level all the way down. (Example, if the top is wet, but 6 inches down is dry and 10 inches down is middling wet, you'll see that.) Years ago I got a tip about the Reotemp moisture meter, and I've become an advocate for it ever since. The meter runs on batteries, the sturdy spike is 17.5 inches long, and the information is viewed on top of the box, not on the side. Pricey but an invaluable tool.

Note: Many of the meters available out there only can be read from the side. Those are better than nothing, but the gardener needs to be very agile or very short to read ones stuck in the ground or a low pot. 

Why it's important: Drowning plants is costly, and wastes water. Knowing whether the soil is really dry, or just looks dry on top, is crucial to proper irrigation levels. (There should be mulch on that soil too, by the way.)

2. Clothes pins or binder clips. Instant attachments are possible but not permanent with these handy items. I clip stems to stakes, shade cloth to cages, and tulle (see below) to itself when wrapping a plant.

3. Tulle. Lighter and cheaper than bird netting, this fabric (often used in wedding veils) is ideal for wrapping a berry-laden bush (using those clothes pins) or providing some quick cover for a newly repotted plant. Bonus: The fabric is washable and reusable.

4. Small wire trash bins. These are usually available cheaply at dollar stores, and they come in a few sizes. Perfect for protecting plants from marauding critters, especially held down with those metal staples used with landscape cloth.

5.  Irrigation repair items. Even if someone else installed the dripline system, a gardener should have on hand enough pieces to make a quick repair. These should include plugs, a few feet of the 1/4-inch tubing, some connector pieces (straight and T-shape), and clamps for a quick shutoff of a blown-out line. Strong scissors also are good to have.

This kit came in handy when my housebound neighbor's dripline blew out right near the sidewalk, sending water pouring down the gutter at 7 a.m.  Once the water shut off, I was able to add a new connector and reattach the line, without her having to call a repair person.

Other items I've found useful over the years:

-- A broken umbrella that still can be opened, to protect a plant suddenly being cooked by the sun. 

-- Unused or too-small tomato cages. Open the umbrella and place it on top of the cage, than position the cage over the suffering plant.

-- Square plant flats. These also work for quick shade; use it with a cage just like the umbrella/cage combo.

-- Plastic gelato containers with lids. Ideal for storing seed pods (such as for California poppies). The jar also makes a great scoop for fertilizer.

-- Newsprint or old newspaper sections. Crumpled, the paper can provide extra insulation around a hot pot, especially if it's set inside an empty larger one. I use sheets of paper inside my worm bin for insulation on top of the worms. Shredded paper also can be used as emergency mulch.

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Garden Checklist for week of April 27

Once the clouds clear, get to work. Spring growth is in high gear.

* Set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, radishes and squash. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* Weed, weed, weed! Don’t let unwanted plants go to seed.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Feed citrus trees with a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Start thinning fruit that's formed on apple and stone fruit trees -- you'll get larger fruit at harvest (and avoid limb breakage) if some is thinned now. The UC recommendation is to thin fruit when it is about 3/4 of an inch in diameter. Peaches and nectarines should be thinned to about 6 inches apart; smaller fruit such as plums and pluots can be about 4 inches apart. Apricots can be left at 3 inches apart. Apples and pears should be thinned to one fruit per cluster of flowers, 6 to 8 inches apart.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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