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How to help your fruit trees survive drought, triple-digit heat


Apples are moderately drought tolerant and can get by with twice-monthly irrigation. (Photo: Debbie Arrington)

Fruit and limb drop common during high temperatures, say master gardeners




When temperatures go up, fruit starts to drop. And this summer, so do branches.

Fruit drop and limp drop are both signs of heat stress in fruit trees, a staple of backyard gardens throughout the greater Sacramento area.

Sacramento County master gardener Quentyn Young has seen the effects of triple-digit heat in the demonstration fruit orchard at the master gardeners’ Fair Oaks Horticulture Center.

“We lost quite a few branches from a combination of heat and high winds,” says Young, a longtime professional nurseryman who oversees the 60-tree orchard.

Sudden fruit drop – which often happens during early triple-digit days in summer – is another sign of heat stress.

“One of our citrus trees dropped all its fruit all at once, and that’s not uncommon,” Young said. “When something happens like that, you also have to ask: Did you stop watering it? Was that tree getting its water from a nearby lawn that’s now not getting watered? Or is there something wrong with your irrigation?”

If fruit is ripening on the tree, wait to cut back on irrigation, if possible. Developing fruit needs that water, and so does the tree during this period. After harvest, the tree will be better able to withstand a drastic reduction in irrigation.

Other signs of heat stress: Brown edges on leaves or curling foliage. Heat-stressed fruit trees also tend to attract spider mites.

Many fruit trees had a heavy fruit set this spring. All those baby plums and peaches stress branches, too.

“Regular thinning helps trees,” explains Young, who also is manager of Fair Oaks Boulevard Nursery in Sacramento. “There’s less stress on the limbs – you’re taking off weight – and the tree will need less water. That’s important during drought like right now.

“Thinning also helps set a better harvest next year,” Young adds, “so you’re helping your tree with two harvests at the same time.”

See the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center’s demonstration orchard (and ask questions, too) during Harvest Day, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Aug. 6. Hosted by the UC Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners of Sacramento County, this free event is a celebration of Sacramento area gardening. Fair Oaks Horticulture Center is located at 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd., Fair Oaks, in Fair Oaks Park. Details:
https://sacmg.ucanr.edu/ .


Tips for saving water around fruit trees


Sacramento County master gardeners recommend these ways to save water this summer while keeping fruit trees healthy and productive:

– Prioritize your fruit trees. Young trees that are still developing need regular irrigation. Pay special attention to rare specimens or sentimental favorites; those are the trees you want to keep healthy.

– Remove dying or non-producing fruit trees. This is a good time to make some decisions. Replant with a water-wise (or more productive) alternative in fall or spring.

– Prune overgrown trees – but not too hard or all at once. Over-pruning adds to tree stress. Instead, reduce the tree’s height by no more than one third, pruning a little more each year for three years. Do this after they finish fruiting.

– Irrigate early in the morning to cut down on evaporation. Water deeply, then wait until soil feels dry 4 to 6 inches below the surface. (Take a trowel and look.)

– Skip the fertilizer. It prompts fast growth and that needs more water.

– Mulch around fruit trees with bark, wood chips, leaves or straw, about 3 to 4 inches deep. Avoid mounding mulch around the trunk; instead, clear a circle about 6 inches away from the tree.

– Weed. Unwanted plants under trees compete for water.


Which fruit trees need the least water?


Most drought tolerant (water deeply once or twice a month): Almonds, figs, olives, persimmons, pomegranates.

Moderately tolerant (water twice a month or once a week): Apples, apricots, cherries, pears, prunes, walnuts.

Least tolerant (water weekly or twice weekly): Nectarines, peach, citrus.

Source: UCCE Master Gardeners of Sacramento County







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Garden checklist for week of April 12

After these storms pass, get to work on spring clean-up.

* Weed, weed, weed! Take advantage of soft soil and pull them before they go to seed.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, radishes and squash.

* Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias.

* Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant heat-resistant lettuce seedlings.

* Feed roses and other spring-blooming shrubs.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Feed citrus trees with a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds. Avoid "volcano mulching" -- be sure to keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks or the stems of shrubs. This prevents rot and disease.

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WINTER

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Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

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Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

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Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth