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Rats! Hungry rodents attacking summer gardens

How do you deter these critters? Take away their happy homes and hiding places

Red oval tomato with rodent bite
The damage on this tomato likely was the
work of a rodent -- probably a Norway rat.
(Photo: Debbie Arrington)


What’s eating my tomatoes? Often, it may be something you’d rather not think about – rats.

In my community garden this summer, we’ve been plagued by rats. They nested under a shed and grew fat on the nearby compost pile. Now, they’ve branched out to attack plants in several plots, digging holes under shrubs and other large plants.

Their damage can look like snail or hornworm damage on tomatoes. They nibble big, often irregular holes. Rats can climb, too. They’ll scale a tomato cage to feast on fruit 2 or 3 feet off the ground.

Rats tend to be active at night, so you’ll see their damage before you ever see the actual offender.

How can you tell the difference between rat or snail bites? Look for telltale “calling cards”: rat poop or snail slime.

Two kinds of rats are most common in Sacramento and both are invasive species. Roof rats, as the name implies, like to scamper across phone lines and into fruit trees. Naturally athletic, a roof rat can eat the entire interior of an orange while it’s still hanging on the tree. They also like to eat the skin off a Meyer lemon (but they’ll leave the pulp attached to the stem).

Norway rats are bigger and tend to stay close to the ground. They burrow, digging holes under shrubs and buildings. They like to nest under wood piles or overgrown plants.

Norway rat against green grass
This is a Norway rat, bane of vegetable gardeners. (Photo
courtesy UCIPM)

How do you tell a young rat from a full-grown mouse? The rat has a large head and big feet in proportion to its body.

According to UC master gardeners, there are no truly effective rat repellents available in California. Chili powder can deter them for a little while, but then they’ll figure out a way to get around it. Toxic baits have drawbacks, too; other animals may eat it. Rat baits can kill cats and dogs. Or cats or birds may eat a poisoned rat and also die.

Snap traps are effective but require removing the critter once caught.

“Trapping is the safest and most effective method for controlling rats in and around homes, garages, and other structures,” says the UC pest notes. “Because snap traps can be used over and over, trapping is less costly than poison baits but more labor intensive.”

UC research found the best bait for snap traps: shelled nuts, dried fruit, bacon or dog kibble. Cheese or peanut butter can be used, but rats can remove those soft foods without triggering the trap.

Rats are smart. If they escape one snap trap, they’ll avoid others. The master gardeners suggest this trick. Bait the traps but don’t set their triggers. The rat(s) will find the food and get comfortable stealing the bait. They think it’s safe to eat that kibble. Once all the bait is gone, reload the traps with bait and set their triggers. When the rats go back for more nibbles, they’ll get a big surprise.

Place traps about 10 to 20 feet apart along walls or other natural boundaries at a right angle to the wall with the trigger side closest to the wall.

Exclusion is the best strategy to keep rats away; take away their hiding places and don’t let them back in. Norway rats like to hide under overgrown tomato vines, shrubs or other lush growth that reaches the ground. That allows them to hide the entrance to their burrow. By removing the bottom foot of foliage, they lose that camouflage.

Make sure there’s adequate space between plants, preferably 2 or 3 feet. That forces rats to run out in the open – which they don’t like to do – when searching for food. Once exposed, they become targets for birds of prey such as owls.

If you find a burrow entrance, you can attempt to flood their home. Put a hose down the hole and let it run. The critters may try to escape via another entrance (which you’ll soon discover) or drown. Then, cover the entrances with mounds of dirt.


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Flowers in My Back Yard Series

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Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact

Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower

July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show

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July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies

June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden

June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners

June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)

June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself

June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude

May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?

May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs

May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power

May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens

May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend

April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look

April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower

April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact

April 7: Calendulas do double duty

April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come

March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)

March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots

March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums

March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come

March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy

Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?

Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come

Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers

Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses

Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?

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Find our summer recipes here!

Garden checklist for week of Aug. 16

During this break in the heat, feed your garden. Make sure to water before and after applying fertilizer.

* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips.

* Plant potatoes.

* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers. Also, give them a boost with phosphate-rich fertilizer to help fruiting.

* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.

* Feed citrus trees their last round of fertilizer for the year. This will give a boost to the fruit that’s still small.

* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don't let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.

* Camellia leaves looking a little yellow? Give them some chelated iron. That goes for azaleas and gardenias, too.

* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot. Then feed fruit trees with slow-release fertilizer for better production for next year.

* To prolong bloom into fall, feed begonias, fuchsias and container plants. Always water before fertilizing.

* Fertilize fall-blooming perennials, too. Chrysanthemums can be fed until the buds start to open.

* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials, then give them a boost of fertilizer. Make sure to water plants before feeding. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.

* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.

* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

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Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

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Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Add asparagus to your edible garden

Soggy soil and what to do about it

Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Change is in the autumn air 

We don't talk (enough) about beets

Fava beans do double duty

Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Time to shut it down? 

How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

: Put worms to work for you

Grow food while saving water

Enhance your food with edible flowers

Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

Does this plant need water?

 Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

How to grow summer salad greens

 Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

Help pollinators help your garden

Battling early-season tomato pests

Make your own compost

Where are the bees when you need them?

How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

Grow culinary herbs in containers

When to plant summer vegetables

Don't be fooled by these garden myths

Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth