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Fun in January: Choosing tomato seeds


These are some of the seed catalogs piled up on my desk right now. (Photos: Kathy Morrison)

Catalogs can be seductive lures for seed buyers



Do you have a favorite seed catalog for tomatoes? I don't rely on just one, but I often start the season by looking through the
Tomato Growers Supply Co. catalog, just to see what's new and to enjoy all the gorgeous full-color pictures of perfect tomatoes.

This year's catalog cover features one of those eye-grabbing indigo tomatoes, Midnight Snack Hybrid. I grew something similar when these were first hitting the market -- a gift plant from a friend -- and wasn't impressed with the flavor. But there's no denying they get people's attention.

A few of the varieties marked by TGSC as New! are ones I've tried in the past, from other sources, including Heatmaster, Jetsetter and Husky Red. (Jetsetter is good, but I like other early varieties better, if you're interested.) One intriguing offering is Early First Prize. Since the original First Prize is a Tomato Growers exclusive, and an excellent tomato, I might get this new one for next year. I already have a long list to grow this season.

When I was new to tomato seed starting, I'd order four to seven seed packets per catalog, from Burpee Seeds , Totally Tomatoes , Territorial Seed , Nichols Garden Nursery , and Seeds of Change , in addition to Tomato Growers. Later I discovered the overwhelming collection at Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds .

Online access has added Peaceful Valley , TomatoFest , Renee's Garden and Wild Boar Farms to my shopping list -- a looking list, really. (Renee's can be found at some of the nurseries around the area but my closest source, OSH, has closed.) Botanical Interests and Ferry-Morse seeds also are sold at local hardware and big box stores, along with Burpee, of course.

Yes, I'm more selective these days, primarily because I've figured out what grows well in the Sacramento region and in my garden in particular, but also because I never use up a package of seeds in one year. I've traded seeds with other gardeners, but we're more likely to trade seedlings.

These are the most helpful seed packets in
my current collection, with a photo or artwork
of the variety, plus description and,
somewhere on the package, the year packed.
Also, some of the seed companies aren't clued into California planting dates and send along the packages when they get to it -- which might be too late for us. In those cases, I just hang onto the seeds for next year and try to remember not to order from that company again. (My observation: The West Coast companies are better at shipping quickly. Wild Boar Farms and Peaceful Valley, in Napa County and Grass Valley, respectively, are the closest to us.)

If you're new to tomato seed starting, be aware of the code words buried in the descriptions of the seed varieties. "Vigorous" means you'd better give it plenty of room and your sturdiest cage. "Flavor worth waiting for" means it might, just might, produce a crop before fall. Any variety that promises "a profusion of tiny tomatoes" will
From most helpful package, Burpee "retail" version, top left, to least helpful,
TomatoFest, bottom row. TomatoFest's front and back are
the same for all
varieties, except for the little sticker on front.
Burpee's "order" version
packet, interestingly, has no photo.
wear you out with picking.

Here are a few more:
-- "Sometimes their shape is a little rough." You won't be able to get a good slice from it.
-- "Compact, perfect for containers." A very slow grower.
-- "Early season, cold tolerant." It'll likely die early, too, if grown in the Sacramento flatlands.
-- "Intriguing flavor." After tasting the first one you won't know what to do with it.
-- "Unusual color." Not good for sharing. (Your non-gardener friends want red tomatoes. Trust me.)
-- "Sets well in heat." Not our heat.

So your seed order arrives -- hurray! But before you open the packages, make sure there's a date on them. The most helpful seed packages will say somewhere "Packed for 2019. Sell by 12/31/19." If there's no date -- I'm talking about you, Tomato Growers and TomatoFest -- write the year on it immediately. This will help in 2020 or later when you try to remember whether those seeds are still usable.

I also write on the package the date the seeds were started, so I can tell if I skipped a year. In some cases the seed company uses the same package for every variety, meaning no specific photo or artwork or even a description (TomatoFest again). So don't be afraid to write all over that package. You'll thank yourself later.



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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

WINTER:

Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth

WINTER

March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds

March 4: Potatoes from the garden

Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space

Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting

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Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18

Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

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