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Seed starters, be realistic: It will be hot this summer


Juliet tomatoes pass the heat test in Sacramento's climate. (Photo: Kathy Morrison)
Plan for the climate when choosing tomato varieties



In these days of cold, fog and snow reports, it's easy to forget that we're going to be sweating through heat waves in just a few months.

Planning a tomato garden for such weather requires you to be equal parts soothsayer and scientist, with some meteorologist thrown in. Starting seeds now will give you a head start on the hot months -- a topic I wrote about
here -- but you also should choose those varieties carefully.

After 23 years growing vegetables in the Sacramento climate, here's some things I learned about tomatoes and heat:

-- First, remember that extreme heat, over 100 degrees, will affect any tomato variety. Even the hardiest ones will slow down a bit or drop their flowers; these are survival techniques.

-- Dark tomatoes, such as Black Krim and Black Plum, are the most susceptible to heat. Many of them originated in colder climates, including Russia. They do have the most wonderful flavor, however, so if you plant them, give them the coolest spot in the tomato garden, preferably facing east, then be prepared for them to shut down during the hottest months. Last year my Black Plum came back to life in early fall and produced a great crop. You can read more about that here .

-- Hybrids tend to be hardier than heirlooms, which typically have thinner skin and burst easier in heat.

-- Cherry tomatoes can handle high temperatures better than full-size tomatoes. There are a few exceptions: I find the very popular Sun Gold splits much more than most cherries; I plant Sun Sugar for a gold cherry instead.

-- Choose indeterminate varieties over determinate ones, especially if they're touted as a "heat-tolerant" tomato. Determinate varieties bear all or most of their crop at once, while indeterminate ones keep producing, and usually will recover from a heat wave. Despite what I'd seen in previous years from such supposedly heat-hardy varieties, I tried Heatwave II hybrid, a determinate, last year. It whimpered in the face of the June heat waves and never really produced much.

Here are my choices for toughest tomatoes in the face of Sacramento heat:

1) Juliet, a hybrid large-grape tomato with wonderful flavor;

2) Big Beef, my go-to red hybrid for BLT-size slices, a classic;

3) First Prize, another excellent mid-size red tomato, an exclusive variety of Tomato Growers Supply Co.;

4) Lemon Boy, a yellow salad-size hybrid I've grown most years since I began starting seeds,  the hardiest yellow tomato I've ever tried;

5) Sweet Chelsea, a large red cherry tomato that's quite a survivor.

The search for others goes on, of course, which is why I always try new varieties.







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Garden Checklist for week of Jan. 12

Once the winds die down, it’s good winter gardening weather with plenty to do:

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees. (The exceptions are apricot and cherry trees, which are susceptible to a fungus that causes dieback. Save them until summer.) Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* After the wind stops, apply horticultural oil to fruit trees to control scale, mites and aphids. Oils need 24 hours of dry weather after application to be effective.

* This is also the time to spray a copper-based fungicide to peach and nectarine trees to fight leaf curl. (The safest effective fungicides available for backyard trees are copper soap -- aka copper octanoate -- or copper ammonium, a fixed copper fungicide. Apply either of these copper products with 1% horticultural oil to increase effectiveness.)

* When forced bulbs sprout, move them to a cool, bright window. Give them a quarter turn each day so the stems will grow straight.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

* Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs.

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladioli for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Plant blooming azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. If you’re shopping for these beautiful landscape plants, you can now find them in full flower at local nurseries.

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