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5 hacks for shading your precious vegetables

Quick help for plants in danger of sunburn

""
Argh, this Noir Des Carmes melon became sunburned before I could
protect it. (Photos: Kathy
Morrison)


Venture outside in this heat without a hat and sunscreen, and you know what you'll get: Sunburned skin.

Pity your plants, which can't don sun-protective gear or move into the shade. Yet they get sunburned, too.

Sunscald mars ripening tomatoes and peppers. Even melons get scorched in intense heat.

Here's the deal: Growing something that requires "full sun" doesn't always mean, in our climate, "full exposure to sun." Full heat may require some filtered afternoon shade.

""
Lace tablecloths filter the sun in a community garden plot.

The experienced gardeners in my community garden have learned this. Some grow tomatoes under a wooden superstructure that shades the plants. Others hang shade cloth or frost cloth across the front of their tomato plants. A few have a sea of lace tablecloths floating on stakes over their veggies, giving the garden a refined air.

Frankly, I've given up trying to grow bell peppers and certain tomato varieties in full sun. My Robeson tomato, which does not like intense heat, is doing quite nicely this year in a large pot on the north side of a backyard crape myrtle tree. The peppers are also in pots, cozying up against rose bushes and dwarf citrus trees, which give just enough shade.

Are you seeing sunscald on your developing produce? Here are 5 hacks you can try now with items in your home or garden. Since they're not permanent solutions, be sure to plan for 2020: It's going to be just as hot next year.

""
A plant flat anchors some shade cloth on
this Burbank tomato in a pot.

1) Use black plastic plant flats balanced on top of tomato cages. They fit, I found out in desperation one summer. Use them alone or to anchor a piece of burlap or shade cloth to protect peppers or small tomato plants.

2) Put paper hats on melons. Use junk mail envelopes (plain ones, not the ones with the windows) as quick paper hats or cones over your most-exposed little melons. Or fold a piece of newspaper into a tent for a larger melon.

3) Newspaper sections also work as quick, desperation shade, hanging off tomato cages and cucumber trellises. Light can't get through it at all, however, so replace it soon with something less opaque.

4) Are the plants growing up a fence or trellis? Use clothes pins to attach thin dishtowels (worn ones work best) to the trellis, hanging them over the veggies. This is good for cucumbers or any other climbing vegetables.

5) Bring tree shade to the veggies: Trim off just a foot or so of a thin leaf-filled branch from an ornamental tree and lay it carefully among ground-growing veggies, such as squash or melons. The leaves will filter the sun just enough.







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Garden checklist for week of June 14

We'll be back to normal temperatures for mid-June (about 86 degrees) by Thursday. In the meanwhile:

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.

* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.

* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.

* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don't let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes. There’s still time to plant melons, pumpkins and squash from seed.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, bidens, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth