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Earwig: Is it garden friend of foe?


The most common earwigs here are not Northern California native insects
-- they're from Europe. (Photos courtesy Baldo Villegas)
This insect won't eat your brains, but loves seedlings and aphids



These invasive insects make people scream. Although they look the part, they won't eat your brains.
But there are two sides to earwigs.

Yes, they are voracious; these little omnivores eat both bugs and plants. They can destroy seedlings, but they have a big appetite for aphids. That makes them both a bad guy and good guy in the garden.

Right now, earwigs are out in force in Sacramento, munching their way through strawberries and toppling sprouts on a nightly basis. They prefer to eat in the cool of the evening. By day, they hang out in moist mulch, inside pots or other nesting places.

They rank among the most recognizable insects in the garden. They have (relatively) large pinchers at their tail end that they use for fighting. The male's pinchers are curved like forceps; the female's pinchers are straighter.
Munch, munch, munch -- an earwig in a rose.

According to University of California Integrated Pest Management program, the most common species in Northern California is the European earwig, Forficula auricularia . It's dark brown and almost an inch long. This invasive species arrived here sometime in the early 1900s and has been a pest ever since.

What does it like to eat? According to UC Cooperative Extension master gardeners, you should be concerned if you grow vegetables, herbaceous flowering plants, sweet corn, or plants with soft fruits such as strawberries and apricots.

They can seriously damage seedling vegetables as well as berries. They chew holes in annual flowers (especially zinnias) and munch corn silk, which can prevent the ear from forming kernels

The name "earwig" comes from the Olde English words for "ear beetle." People believed that this long, thin insect could crawl inside their ear and tunnel into their brain to lay its eggs.

Of course, it does no such thing. Earwigs lay their eggs underground in some moist spot. That's also where they hibernate. They have only one generation a year. During summer heat, they tend to disappear -- back into the mulch.

On roses, earwigs are more likely to be going after aphids than snacking on the blossoms. They also eat mites and insect eggs, making them more beneficial than detrimental.

Earwigs tend not to be a problem in California native gardens; it's too dry. They thrive in lush, shady and well-irrigated conditions, like English gardens back home.

Pesticides such as bug baits aren't very effective against earwigs. The best way to handle too many earwigs is to think like an earwig. Where would you hide?

Manage them by eliminating hiding places; that's where they are during the day. They like to hang out in weedy areas or under thick vines. Move pots around. Pick up boards or stepping stones.

Trap them. Set up several traps around the yard (especially near areas under attack), along fence lines or near shrubs and ground covers. The most effective trap: A shallow can with a little oil. Earwigs love tuna or fish oil or the scent of bacon grease. The master gardeners suggest using low-sided containers such as tuna or cat food cans. Sink the can down in the ground, so its top edge is at soil level. Place 1/2-inch vegetable oil in the bottom of the can, preferably with a drop of bacon grease or fish oil.

Each morning, check the traps. Dump the earwigs and replenish the oil.

Earwigs also go for paper traps, made of rolled-up newspaper or brown corrugated cardboard. They go after all sorts of short tubes, such as bamboo tubes or short pieces of hose. Check these traps and shake out any earwigs into a bucket of soapy water.

Don't worry; earwigs look mean but they don't harm humans.

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Garden checklist for week of July 19

Remember to water early and deeply; your garden depends on you.

* It’s not too late to add a splash of color. Plant petunias, snapdragons, zinnias and marigolds.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, winter squash and sunflowers.

* Keep your vegetable garden watered, mulched and weeded. Water before 8 a.m. to reduce the chance of fungal infection and to conserve moisture.

* Water, then fertilize vegetables and blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs to give them a boost.

*Fertilizing flowering plants every other week will extend their bloom. Give vegetable plants bone meal or other fertilizers high in phosphate to stimulate more blooms and fruiting.

* Don’t let tomatoes wilt or dry out completely. Give tomatoes a deep watering two to three times a week. Harvest vegetables promptly to encourage plants to produce more. Squash especially tends to grow rapidly in hot weather. Keep an eye on zucchini.

* If your melons and squash aren’t setting fruit, give the bees a hand. With a small, soft paintbrush, gather some pollen from male flowers, then brush it inside the female flowers, which have a tiny swelling at the base of their petals. (That's the embryo melon or squash.) Within days, that little swelling should start growing.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushy plants and more flowers in September.

* Remove spent flowers from roses, daylilies and other bloomers as they finish flowering.

* Pinch off blooms from basil so the plant will grow more leaves. New leaves have the best flavor.

* Cut back lavender after flowering to promote a second bloom.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth