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Watering tips for 100-degree days



The thermometer nearby was right at 99 degrees when this photo was taken in early afternoon. But this tomato plant doesn't need a drink -- wilting is its heat-coping mechanism. If it's still like this in the morning, however, the plant will get some water. (Photos: Kathy Morrison)

How to tell when your plants need a drink



It’s 104 degrees; does your plant need a drink?

Maybe, or maybe not.

Many summer favorites such as tomatoes and squash can thrive in high temperatures. That’s why they grow so well here. Others can become dehydrated and stressed rapidly. (Think hydrangeas.)

Here are some tips for watering during triple-digit heat:

* Check the soil moisture first. Just because you feel hot doesn’t mean your garden needs watering. Clay soil retains moisture and coolness (especially if mulched). So look before you water.

* How to check? A moisture meter is very handy, but you can improvise. Stab a long screwdriver into the ground; if it penetrates 6 inches easily, the soil has enough moisture. (This trick doesn’t work if your testing potting mix; it tends to stay loose, even when dry.) Or check with a trowel. Dig in 6 inches and look – and feel. Is the soil moist? If it easily crumbles, then it’s time to irrigate.

* Watch your plants. Wilting in the afternoon is normal for tomatoes. Wilting in the morning is not; that’s when you know they need a drink right now.

Squash plants also react to high heat by wilting, but recover later.
* Water early in the morning or in the evening. That’s when there’s less evaporation and more moisture stays in the ground.

* Check the temperature of the water coming out of the hose. (This is important especially late in the day.) When you first turn on the water, the water coming out of the hose can be very hot (since it’s been sitting inside plastic or rubber under high heat). Plants don’t appreciate 130-degree water. Let the hose run a little before applying water directly.

* Keep newly planted seeds, sprouts and transplants evenly hydrated. Don’t let their planting beds dry out. They may need daily watering or irrigation every other day.

* Containers drain rapidly. Those plants may need daily watering. Move container plantings out of afternoon sun.

* Be consistent in your watering. Don’t let soil dry out completely; that can lead to blossom end rot in tomatoes and other issues. In container plants, the root ball contracts, so when you do give them a drink, the water just flows down the sides of the pot’s interior instead of actually rehydrating the roots.

* Mulch goes a long way in maintaining soil moisture and coolness. Don’t let it mound around trunks or main stems; give them a little room to breathe to avoid crown rot.

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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth