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Watering tips for 100-degree days



The thermometer nearby was right at 99 degrees when this photo was taken in early afternoon. But this tomato plant doesn't need a drink -- wilting is its heat-coping mechanism. If it's still like this in the morning, however, the plant will get some water. (Photos: Kathy Morrison)

How to tell when your plants need a drink



It’s 104 degrees; does your plant need a drink?

Maybe, or maybe not.

Many summer favorites such as tomatoes and squash can thrive in high temperatures. That’s why they grow so well here. Others can become dehydrated and stressed rapidly. (Think hydrangeas.)

Here are some tips for watering during triple-digit heat:

* Check the soil moisture first. Just because you feel hot doesn’t mean your garden needs watering. Clay soil retains moisture and coolness (especially if mulched). So look before you water.

* How to check? A moisture meter is very handy, but you can improvise. Stab a long screwdriver into the ground; if it penetrates 6 inches easily, the soil has enough moisture. (This trick doesn’t work if your testing potting mix; it tends to stay loose, even when dry.) Or check with a trowel. Dig in 6 inches and look – and feel. Is the soil moist? If it easily crumbles, then it’s time to irrigate.

* Watch your plants. Wilting in the afternoon is normal for tomatoes. Wilting in the morning is not; that’s when you know they need a drink right now.

Squash plants also react to high heat by wilting, but recover later.
* Water early in the morning or in the evening. That’s when there’s less evaporation and more moisture stays in the ground.

* Check the temperature of the water coming out of the hose. (This is important especially late in the day.) When you first turn on the water, the water coming out of the hose can be very hot (since it’s been sitting inside plastic or rubber under high heat). Plants don’t appreciate 130-degree water. Let the hose run a little before applying water directly.

* Keep newly planted seeds, sprouts and transplants evenly hydrated. Don’t let their planting beds dry out. They may need daily watering or irrigation every other day.

* Containers drain rapidly. Those plants may need daily watering. Move container plantings out of afternoon sun.

* Be consistent in your watering. Don’t let soil dry out completely; that can lead to blossom end rot in tomatoes and other issues. In container plants, the root ball contracts, so when you do give them a drink, the water just flows down the sides of the pot’s interior instead of actually rehydrating the roots.

* Mulch goes a long way in maintaining soil moisture and coolness. Don’t let it mound around trunks or main stems; give them a little room to breathe to avoid crown rot.

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Garden Checklist for week of Jan. 12

Once the winds die down, it’s good winter gardening weather with plenty to do:

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees. (The exceptions are apricot and cherry trees, which are susceptible to a fungus that causes dieback. Save them until summer.) Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* After the wind stops, apply horticultural oil to fruit trees to control scale, mites and aphids. Oils need 24 hours of dry weather after application to be effective.

* This is also the time to spray a copper-based fungicide to peach and nectarine trees to fight leaf curl. (The safest effective fungicides available for backyard trees are copper soap -- aka copper octanoate -- or copper ammonium, a fixed copper fungicide. Apply either of these copper products with 1% horticultural oil to increase effectiveness.)

* When forced bulbs sprout, move them to a cool, bright window. Give them a quarter turn each day so the stems will grow straight.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

* Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs.

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladioli for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Plant blooming azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. If you’re shopping for these beautiful landscape plants, you can now find them in full flower at local nurseries.

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