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Citrus trees, beloved and bewildering


That little orange is doomed -- sustenance has been cut off by the tree and it
will fall off soon. It's "June drop" time. (Photos: Kathy Morrison)

Home garden favorites have a range of quirks


Question: How is an orange tree like a pet cat?

Answer: You love it, even though you don't understand it most of the time.

Really, every lemon, orange, lime, grapefruit and mandarin sold to backyard gardeners should come with an instruction booklet -- or, more realistically these days, a YouTube mini course.

Right now, orange tree owners are flummoxed by a regular occurrence: the "June drop" of excess tiny fruit.

"Aw, gee, look at all these oranges falling off! Must be something wrong. Or maybe it's the weather."

Nope. It's normal. The tree is self-selecting how many oranges it can grow this year. It'll drop as much as 95 percent of the blossoms and fruit it had in spring.

With thanks to UCCE master gardener Bill Krycia, whose citrus class I took in April, here are five more fascinating, flummoxing facts about citrus trees:

1) Commercially sold citrus trees in the U.S. are grafted onto rootstock for hardiness and better production. But the rootstock can and will take over the tree if you let it. Example of the reaction when this happens: "My lemon tree was great for years but now it's producing these bumpy thick-skinned lemons." A significant part of the tree probably died back for some reason -- frost, maybe -- and suckers from the rootstock have taken over. The weird fruit is from the rootstock.

(P.S. The rootstock used for dwarf citrus is called Flying Dragon. I love that name.)

Can't thank the bees for these beautiful navels-to-be,
on the same tree as the one above. Navel oranges
do not depend on pollinators to set fruit.
2) Bees do not pollinate navel oranges. Navel oranges are parthenocarpic (Satsumas, too), meaning they set fruit without pollination or fertilization. All those early blossoms are merely floral -- fun for bees! The later blossoms produced by the tree are the ones that turn into oranges. Seedless oranges, of course. Yes, weird.

3) Citrus trees are evergreen -- they don't drop all their leaves in fall, like apple or pear trees  -- and the leaves are multi-taskers. They make food for the tree via photosynthesis, of course, but their additional role is storage. Along with the twigs, branches and roots, the leaves also store excess food (aka photosynthate) through winter. These storage sites are most packed in late winter and early spring, just before spring bloom. This is why citrus shouldn't be pruned then: The fruit yield will be much lower.

4) Citrus varieties easily cross, and the origin of certain varieties is not certain. But this also means new hybrids are being created all the time, especially at UC Riverside, a hotbed of citrus research. The red-fleshed "Valentine" pummelo, for example, is the result of a UCR cross of a pummelo, a blood orange and a mandarin.

5) Some citrus trees, especially mandarins, produce in two-year cycles, with a heavy crop one year, followed by a lighter one. Pruning the tree during the summer before the heavy crop ripens actually can even out this cycle, but who's willing to sacrifice that crop? I know, I know, but do prune if the tree is overburdened and the limbs could break.



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Garden checklist for week of May 31

Remember to water early. No more rain is in the immediate forecast.

* It’s not too late to transplant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or other summer favorites. Make sure they stay hydrated.

* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias.

* It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth