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Hot tomato! Tips to survive a heat wave



This tomato plant might drop its flowers in the next several hot days, but there are measures a gardener can take to save the tomatoes already growing. (Photo: Kathy Morrison)


How to help your tomatoes cope with triple-digit temperatures




Tomatoes don’t like high heat any more than people. When temperatures hit a string of days in the high 90s or hotter, tomato production becomes problematic.

If this coming week follows its forecast, expect a gap in your harvest later this summer.

According to the National Weather Service, Sacramento starts summer with a heat wave. Highs for every day until June 28 are forecast 95 degrees or higher, with four days expected to top 100.

Which means tomatoes will drop their flowers instead of setting fruit. Even heat-tolerant varieties won’t set tomatoes in such high temperatures.

Once temperatures cool down to the mere 80s, the vines likely will try again and send out more flowers, hopefully yielding late-season tomatoes.

The trick now is to preserve the crop that’s already on the vines. If planted in March or April, vines likely have several green tomatoes. What you do this week will determine their fate.

1. Mulch. If you haven’t already, spread a 2- to 3-inch blanket of straw, leaves or other organic mulch around your tomato plants. It keeps the soil – and roots – cooler and more comfortable. Mulch also helps the soil retain moisture longer and cuts down on weeds.

2. Weed. Many invasive plants thrive in this heat and grow rapidly, competing with your tomatoes for space, water and food. Eliminate weeds and your tomatoes will be happier. But be gentle when removing weeds; avoid disturbing the tomato plant’s roots.

3. Deep water; don’t overwater. Tomatoes benefit from a good soaking once or twice a week instead of a little water every day. Not enough or inconsistent moisture levels can lead to cracked tomatoes or blossom end rot, which looks like a dark brown or black lesion on the bottom of the fruit. (Blossom end rot has nothing to do with rotting flowers.) Avoid letting soil dry out completely. But the soil shouldn’t be kept wet; that can suffocate roots. Before watering, look at the soil. Test it with a moisture meter or just poke your finger in and feel.

4. Skip the fertilizer. Don’t feed tomatoes during a heat wave. Fertilizer can cause leaf burn if not enough moisture is present in the soil. Nitrogen now will just stimulate more vine and leaf growth – not fruit. The result is a weak and spindly plant prone to disease and insect infestations.

5. Think about shade. Too much sun can cause sunburn on the shoulders of ripening tomatoes. If your vines are getting blasted by afternoon sun, erect a temporary shade structure with burlap, cardboard, nursery flats or other lightweight materials.

6. Consider picking tomatoes before they’re red. It’s heresy to pick homegrown tomatoes before fully ripe, but some large tomatoes (particularly beefsteaks) will not turn red when temperatures stay hot. They’ll get orange, but not crimson. Pick the big orange ones and let them turn red on your kitchen counter. They may not have the same intense flavor as fully vine-ripened, but they’ll still be good, red and ready in a week instead of waiting until the weather cools down.

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Garden Checklist for week of Jan. 12

Once the winds die down, it’s good winter gardening weather with plenty to do:

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees. (The exceptions are apricot and cherry trees, which are susceptible to a fungus that causes dieback. Save them until summer.) Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* After the wind stops, apply horticultural oil to fruit trees to control scale, mites and aphids. Oils need 24 hours of dry weather after application to be effective.

* This is also the time to spray a copper-based fungicide to peach and nectarine trees to fight leaf curl. (The safest effective fungicides available for backyard trees are copper soap -- aka copper octanoate -- or copper ammonium, a fixed copper fungicide. Apply either of these copper products with 1% horticultural oil to increase effectiveness.)

* When forced bulbs sprout, move them to a cool, bright window. Give them a quarter turn each day so the stems will grow straight.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

* Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs.

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladioli for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Plant blooming azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. If you’re shopping for these beautiful landscape plants, you can now find them in full flower at local nurseries.

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