Sacramento Digs Gardening logo
Sacramento Digs Gardening Article
Your resource for Sacramento-area gardening news, tips and events

Articles Recipe Index Keyword Index Calendar Twitter Facebook Instagram About Us Contact Us

Speaking for the trees: Don't forget them in this heat

Invaluable shade for us and habitat for many creatures

Variety of street trees
Just one street in a Sacramento suburb, but many types of trees, all with their own irrigation needs.
(Photo: Kathy Morrison)


My east-facing driveway is my early morning thermometer. When I step out there to pick up the newspaper or put something in my car, I can tell what kind of day we're going to have, especially in summer. (This morning: Pretty bad, but short of volcano heat.)
Just a few feet away, in the southeast corner of the yard, the air is at least 5 degrees cooler, and the grass is still refreshing on bare feet. That's thanks to the big redwood tree someone planted there several decades ago. Not a good choice for our climate, certainly, but that tree saves us money in air-conditioning costs for at least some of the day. It's also an entire habitat for the birds and squirrels, including the best lookout tower in the neighborhood for the local scrub jays.
I'd never get rid of that tree, so I baby it, and especially during drought and heat waves.  (It's not the redwood in the photo above, by the way.)
Be good to your trees, and they'll continue to be good to you. Here are some tips from the Sacramento Tree Foundation and the UCCE master gardeners:
-- Know your trees! Native species of the Central Valley are well-adapted to the weather. Mature valley oaks, for instance, need just one or two deep waterings during the dry season. Redwoods like mine and other moisture-adapted trees (birches, magnolias, etc.) on the other hand, need regular deep waterings. And any tree that's planted near or in a lawn may have developed surface roots and have higher water needs. And young trees need more frequent irrigation than mature trees as they establish their roots.
-- Know your soil. Stick a screwdriver, a trowel or a soil probe into the soil around the tree about 6 to 12 inches. If the soil is dry and crumbly -- or rock-hard clay -- apply water slowly to soak down 12 to 24 inches. (See the tips at the end for ways to do this.) An estimated 85 percent of tree roots are in the top 18 inches of soil.
-- Know where to water. Irrigating at the base of a mature tree does nothing to help the roots, and might even cause rot. The roots extend out away from the tree much farther than you may think. Be sure to soak the root zone at least out to the drip line, defined as the soil beneath the edge of the leaves.
-- Know when to prune. During a heat wave, don't prune trees and other woody plants unless necessary (a cracked branch, for instance). Pruning stimulates shoot growth, which increases the need for water.
-- Know how to prevent rapid evaporation. Mulch, mulch, mulch! We say it a lot, because it works. Keep mulch a few inches away from the trunks of trees -- avoid "mulch volcanoes." Spread the mulch at least 3 inches deep across the root zone. This helps keep the soil cooler, will reduce weeds and will help retain soil moisture.
Methods of deep-watering trees:
-- Drip irrigation system that uses mini or micro sprinklers. (Make sure ANY sprinkler used doesn't splash water on the trunk or the base of the trunk.)
-- Soaker hose spiraled out to the tree's drip line. Reposition it as necessary.
-- A large, thin-plastic bucket with a couple of holes punched in the bottom. Position the bucket where you want to deep-water, fill the bucket and then let it soak in. Move the bucket and repeat. (This is labor intensive but does work, especially during drought water limitations. I found a 7-gallon clothes hamper that worked perfectly.)
-- Garden hose barely running. Also labor intensive (you have to move the hose a lot) but it will soak one area at a time quite well.
Prevent water runoff, of course, and don't water during windy conditions or during the middle of the day.

Comments

0 comments have been posted.

Newsletter Subscription

Sacramento Digs Gardening to your inbox.

Local News

Ad for California Local

Taste Spring! E-cookbook

Strawberries

Find our spring recipes here!

Garden checklist for week of June 14

We'll be back to normal temperatures for mid-June (about 86 degrees) by Thursday. In the meanwhile:

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.

* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.

* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.

* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don't let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes. There’s still time to plant melons, pumpkins and squash from seed.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, bidens, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

Contact Us

Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event.  sacdigsgardening@gmail.com

Taste Summer! E-cookbook

square-tomatoes-plate.jpg

Find our summer recipes here!

Taste Fall! E-cookbook

Muffins and pumpkin

Find our fall recipes here!

Taste Winter! E-cookbook

Lemon coconut pancakes

Find our winter recipes here!

Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth