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Prepare the garden for the dangerous heat wave ahead



Frost cloth attached to hoops protects this gardener's strawberry and melon plants from intense sunlight. (Photos: Kathy Morrison)


It’s going to be ugly, Sacramento



The forecast for the next week in Sacramento is terrifying: Eight days of triple digits, including at least six days at 107 degrees or higher. The National Weather Service has issued an excessive heat warning, in effect from noon Friday through 9 p.m. Wednesday for the Central Valley and foothills.

Remember that our top temperature so far this summer was 106 degrees, on July 11-12, and that seemed brutal. That heat spike also was over fairly quickly.

How can a gardener prevent or at least mitigate heat stress and keep plants alive?

Do this:

1) Water -- This is your first and best defense for your plants. Make sure they are well watered before the day's heat kicks in. You may have to water daily -- preferably in the early morning hours -- until temps return to normal. But be sure to check the soil frequently, too. You don’t want to drown your plants, either.

And if you have a drip system, check along its length to make sure all the emitters are working properly. Discovering one is clogged after a nearby plant has died is just sad.

And when you're done watering the roots, give the plants a light water spray on the leaves, too. It'll clean off the dust and freshen up the plants.

Container plants, whose roots are more exposed to heat, may require watering twice a day.

And if you haven't deep-watered your trees at least once this summer, this weekend would be the time to do it. Micro-sprayers work best with trees, but a soaker hose spiraled around the root zone also works well. Give your precious shade trees a long, slow soak and they'll be better-equipped to handle the heat, too.

2) Mulch --
Two to 4 inches of mulch is the ideal, and not too close to trunks or stems, please. This slows evaporation of the water you just gave the plants. Compost makes terrific mulch because it will enhance the soil eventually, as well as keep it moist now. Other organic options include straw, wood chips or shredded newspaper.

3) Harvest -- Seriously, harvest whatever you can now. This prevents heirloom tomatoes from exploding in the heat, for example, and eases the stress on any crop plants. (By the way, you have probably learned by now that tomato and squash plants droop in the afternoon heat, as a protective measure. If they droop in the morning, they need water and possibly some attention.)

Squash plants
These butternut squash plants
will perk up again overnight.


4) Cover --
Sensitive plants, including many vegetables, benefit in extreme heat from some afternoon shade. This can be as elaborate as shade cloth strung from fence posts, or as easy as an old white cotton sheet draped over stakes. Frost cloth makes very good shade cloth in high summer. I’ve also seen lace tablecloths used effectively. Individual plants benefit from newspaper tents (melons especially), net cloches or a black plastic plant flats tipped up against the root zone. Anything that can reduce the intensity of the sunlight and drop the air temperature helps.

5) Relocate -- If you can move container plants to a shadier spot, do so. You can always move them back later. No one’s going to be outside to comment on your pot lineup under the eaves anyway.

6) Insulate -- Some containers are just too big to move. Or maybe you don’t have any shadier spots. But you should try to keep the roots of container plants from cooking in their pots. One way is to set a small pot inside a large empty one that has been lined with crumpled paper. Another method is to push several containers together, so they shade and insulate each other. A group of containers also is easy to shade with old sheets or beach towels.

But don’t:

1) Fertilize -- Fertilizing a plant in a heat wave is a good way to stress your plant, foster weak new shoots and attract pests.

2) Trim off burned/brown leaves -- This is the same advice for plants after a freeze. Those mostly dead leaves on the outside will have to go someday, but for now they're protecting the leaves underneath. So leave them alone.

3) Plant or transplant -- Again, who wants to add to a plant's stress? If you bought new plants, keep them in the shade and keep them watered until temps are normal again. And avoid buying any more until September, since fall is a better time to plant, anyway.

And for the gardener:

Stay hydrated, and stay inside as much as possible. Getting heatstroke doesn't help the plants or yourself.

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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth