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Disappearing seedlings? Usual suspects may be to blame

Snails and slugs come out in force during autumn weather

Sacramento Digs Gardening
BY Debbie Arrington PUBLISHED OCT 26, 2020

Brown garden snail

The brown garden snail ( Cornu aspersum) is a

voracious garden pest. (Photos courtesy UC IPM)

What’s making those holes? Whether or not you see their telltale tracks, don’t count out these usual suspects.

Snails and slugs rank among the most destructive pests in the California garden. They do most of their damage at night. But cool and cloudy days (such as expected later this week) will coax them out during daylight, too.

Why are they so bad? They eat and eat and eat. According to the UC Cooperative Extension master gardeners, these land mollusks prefer succulent foliage or flowers, which is why snails and slugs represent such a threat to tender seedlings. They also like to eat ripe strawberries and tomatoes.

Among their other favorites: Basil, beans, cabbage, dahlia, delphinium, hosta, lettuce, marigolds and many other vegetable plants.

On leaves, their damage is quickly evident. Snails and slugs eat smooth-edged irregular holes and eventually will devour the whole leaf. They travel on a layer of slimy mucus that dries into a silvery trail, a sure sign that a snail or slug has visited. But these are clever little beasts; they can find many hiding places.

The major difference between snails and slugs is the shell. Snails carry a place to retreat and hibernate; slugs do not (and live a much shorter time). Snails take about two years to fully mature; slugs mature in three to six months. Both spend the winter in hiding.

The best way to cut down on snails? Eliminate their hiding places.

“Boards, stones, debris, weedy areas around tree trunks, leafy branches growing close to the ground, and dense ground covers, such as ivy, are ideal sheltering spots,” says the UC’s Integrated Pest Management website.

“Place vegetable gardens or susceptible plants as far away from snail and slug hiding areas as possible,” it added. “Reducing hiding places allows fewer snails and slugs to survive. The survivors congregate in the remaining shelters, where you can more easily locate and remove them.

“Though baits can be part of a management program, it is best to use them in conjunction with habitat modification, especially in gardens that contain plenty of shelter, food, and moisture,” it noted.

Also, some snail baits are poisonous to pets and people.

How do you get snails and slugs to come out of their hiding places? Water around suspected areas in the late afternoon. Return an hour after dark with a flashlight. You’ll see the critters enjoying that ground moisture. (That’s also a good time to pick them up and dispose of these hungry pests. Wear gloves.)

Not all hiding places can be eliminated, note the master gardeners. So, make snail trapping a regular part of your garden routine. Here are the master gardeners’ recommendations:

Snail trap

Here's an example of a snail trap made of boards.

“You can trap snails and slugs beneath boards or flower pots that you position throughout the garden and landscape. Inverted melon rinds also make good traps. Construct wooden traps using 12-by-15-inch boards (or any easy-to-handle size) raised off the ground by 1-inch runners. The runners make it easy for the pests to crawl underneath.

“Scrape off the accumulated snails and slugs daily and destroy them (see hand-picking). Do not use salt to destroy snails and slugs, as it will increase soil salinity.”

What about beer? Is it true snails and slugs can’t resist a stale brew?

“Some people use beer-baited traps buried at ground level to catch and drown slugs and snails that fall into them,” say the master gardeners. “Because it is the fermented part of the product that attracts these pests, you can also use a sugar-water and yeast mixture instead of beer.

“Beer or yeast traps attract slugs and snails within an area of only a few feet, and you must replenish the bait every few days to keep the level deep enough to drown the mollusks. Traps must have deep vertical sides to keep the snails and slugs from crawling out and a top to reduce evaporation. These types of traps are available at garden supply stores, or you can make your own by burying a coffee can, margarine container, or plastic bottle with the top at ground level and placing a lid with holes cut into it over the container.”

For more on snails and slugs: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html

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Keywords:

UCCE master gardeners gardening Sacramento slugs integrated pest management fall weather garden pests snails

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Garden checklist for week of Aug. 2

Get out early in the morning and monitor your garden’s moisture needs. Deep water and add temporary shade structures for plants that are feeling a little burned. In particular, protect developing peppers and eggplant.

* Put off fertilization until this heat passes; plants need to concentrate on hydration instead of growth.

* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers.

* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.

* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don’t let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.

* Pinch off dead flowers from perennials and annuals to lengthen their summer bloom.

* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot.

* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.

* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.

* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.

* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips. Make sure to keep seeds and seedlings consistently moist.

* Plant potatoes.

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