They are more vulnerable than we realize
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This gash was left after a huge limb broke off a blue oak
recently. (Photos: Kathy Morrison)
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It takes a long time for a mature tree to die.
Yet we've all seen it, maybe without noticing the symptoms. The canopy grows sparse, or it starts dropping leaves and twigs at the wrong time of year, or there are holes all over the trunk. Years may go by before a windstorm blows it over. With the shade in that area now gone, the plants nearby are affected, and maybe the character of the site changes.
Trees are easily taken for granted.
I was reminded of this earlier in the week when I strolled over to our neighborhood park. I hadn't been in awhile, and I always enjoy seeing the changes that fall brings. Also, a flock of magpies lives there, and the birds are amusing to watch.
This park has been part of my landscape for nearly 25 years -- I've photographed most of the trees at one time or another -- so it was a bit of a shock to see a giant wound on my favorite blue oak. This tree stands probably 50 feet tall, just to the side of a small park building that formerly was a restroom and now is a utility room for the park district. A small muddy creek runs nearby about 10 feet away.
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Here's what the full-size blue oak looked like in January 2018.
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Blue oaks ( Quercus douglasii ) are tough native trees. In the book "Oaks of California" (Cachuma Press), the authors note, "Although other oaks are resistant to drought, few of them combine all the mechanisms of opportunism, conservation, tolerance and resiliency that are known in blue oak." The tree also is one of the "Shady Eighty," trees recommended by the Sacramento Tree Foundation. This particular specimen undoubtably was growing here long before the neighborhood was built in the 1960s.
So why did this giant lose such a big section at this time?
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And here it is earlier this week.
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This likely is evidence of borer insects, which years ago sensed a stressed tree and made this oak their home. Clearwing moths are among the insects whose larvae leave dime-size tunnels in trees, but it could have been another pest. SacTree notes of the blue oak: "Wood and root rots occur, borers and chewing insects can also be a problem."
Whatever caused the branch to weaken and break, this tree may not survive the injury. The remaining canopy, with the exception of one other smaller branch, still sported the tree's distinctive blue-green leaves. But since the tree stands next to a public walkway, it may pose too much of a liability to remain where it's grown for so many years. If it goes, I will miss it. Its fate also serves as an excellent reminder to care for our trees, before we're forced to notice them.
If you have questions about caring for any trees, not just oaks, the Sacramento Tree Foundation is an excellent source of information: sactree.org
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of March 8
During this sunny week, get your garden set up for a beautiful spring:
* Fertilize roses, annual flowers and berries as spring growth begins to appear.
* Pull weeds now! Don’t let them get started. Take a hoe and whack them as soon as they sprout.
* Prepare vegetable beds. Spade in compost and other amendments.
* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs after bloom.
* Feed camellias at the end of their bloom cycle. Pick up browned and fallen flowers to help corral blossom blight.
* Feed citrus trees, which are now in bloom and setting fruit. To prevent sunburn and borer problems on young trees, paint the exposed portion of the trunk with diluted white latex (water-based) interior paint. Dilute the paint with an equal amount of cold water before application.
* Feed roses with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium available in that product).
* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs and trees after they bloom. Try using well-composted manure, spread 1-inch thick under the tree. This serves as both fertilizer and mulch, retaining moisture while cutting down on weeds.
* Cut back and fertilize perennial herbs to encourage new growth.
* In the vegetable garden, transplant lettuce and cole family plants, such as broccoli, collards and kale.
* Seed chard and beets directly into the ground. (Soak beet seeds first for better germination.)
* Plant summer bulbs, including gladiolus, tuberous begonias and callas. Also plant dahlia tubers.
* Shop for perennials. Many varieties are available in local nurseries and at plant events. They can be transplanted now while the weather remains relatively cool.
* Seed and renovate the lawn (if you still have one). Feed cool-season grasses such as bent, blue, rye and fescue with a slow-release fertilizer. Check the irrigation system and perform maintenance. Make sure sprinkler heads are turned toward the lawn, not the sidewalk.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth