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Will 'old' seed grow?

Beets do best in at-home trial, but other vegetables can still sprout, too

Beet seedlings
This Dutch Baby Ball beet sprouted from 6-year-old seed. (Photos: Debbie Arrington)






It’s a common dilemma: Leftover seeds.

Like most longtime vegetable gardeners, I accumulate way more seed packets than I can actually grow in my limited space. And each year, I tend to acquire more seeds in different varieties -- wowed by pretty pictures or tantalizing descriptions – instead of using up what I have on hand.

But this season with seed shortages online and limited offerings in stores, I revisited my collection of leftovers and was shocked to see the age on those pretty packets. Some were more than a decade old.

Can you plant old seeds? Sure; it depends on how old is “old.” The real question is: Will they grow?

Seed packets are stamped with the year they’re intended for planting. It’s not an expiration date, but a packing date.

Seeds lose their vitality – their life force and ability to sprout – at different rates, depending on species. Onions and leeks lose their vitality in just one year. Other seeds will still sprout five years or more after packing.

Beet seed packets
These older beet seeds were still good to grow.

In a winter garden experiment, I planted a dozen packets of seeds – all of them older than five years – in blocks in a backyard raised bed. I gave them lots of time and water. Sprouts of lettuce, carrots, onions and radishes never appeared.

The only blocks to sprout and grow? The beets. From Renee’s Garden, Heirloom Chioggia (vintage 2013) and Dutch Baby Ball (packed for 2015) both are growing and maturing.

So, “old” beet seeds can be planted with some success. I suspect the same will hold true of chard.

Of course, seed companies would prefer that we buy more seed each year. I know I will and already have.

But I also plan to be more mindful of using the seed I have on hand in a more timely fashion.

Seed vitality is often tied to how that seed was stored. Seed should be stored in a cool, dark place (below 50 degrees) in its original packaging. That helps maintain a stable moisture content. Too much moisture, the seed will sprout or rot. Not enough, it dries out and loses its vitality.

High Mowing Organic Seeds came up with this handy chart almost 10 years ago. It’s a good reference point when sorting your seed packets and deciding what to grow – and what won’t grow.


Seed type Longevity with proper seed storage

Artichokes

5 years

Arugula

3 years

Beans

3 years

Beets

4 years

Broccoli

3 years

Brussels Sprouts

4 years

Cabbage

4 years

Carrots

3 years

Cauliflower

4 years

Celery/Celeriac

5 years

Chard

4 years

Collards

5 years

Corn

2 years

Cress

5 years

Cucumbers

5 years

Eggplant

4 years

Endive/Escarole

5 years

Fennel

4 years

Kale

4 years

Kohlrabi

4 years

Leeks

1 year

Lettuce

5 years

Melons

5 years

Mustard

4 years

Okra

2 years

Onions

1 year

Peas

3 years

Peppers

2 years

Pumpkins

4 years

Radish

5 years

Rutabagas

4 years

Spinach

2-3 years

Summer Squash

4 years

Tomatoes

4 years

Turnips

5 years

Watermelon

4 years

Winter Squash

4 years





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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth