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Winter chill brings out spring lilacs

Even low-chill varieties need some cold time

Lilacs are putting on a show right now, thanks to enough winter chill hours. (Photos: Debbie Arrington)





More proof we had a chilly (if dry) winter: Lilacs.

Throughout my Sacramento neighborhood, lilacs are putting on a spectacular spring show. That includes my own backyard.

Of course, these are “low-chill” varieties such as Lavender Lady, California Rose and Angel White. They still need a considerable amount of “chill hours” (often 500-plus), but nowhere near that of higher chill varieties. Chill hours measure the time spent below 45 degrees.

Lilac blooms
Unfortunately the perfume of these lilacs can't be shared in print.

Bred to be grown in USDA Zones 3-8, most hybrid lilacs require 2,000 chill hours. That’s more than double what we typically get in Sacramento (USDA Zone 9). Our final totals for the winter of 2020-2021: 730 to 1,012 chill hours in the Sacramento Valley and 859 to 1,195 chill hours in the foothills.

But that was enough to prompt those local “low-chill” lilacs to bloom like crazy.

Now is a good time to shop for lilacs in nurseries or admire them in landscapes. This when they look (and smell) their best.

Even with plenty of chill, common lilacs ( Syringa vulgaris ) and their hybrids can be tricky to get to bloom year after year. Like hydrangeas, their flowers are dependent on well-timed (or no) pruning.

Next spring’s flowers form on the stems right after this year’s blooms are done. But you’ve got to do something; leaving the spent flowers on the bush can inhibit blooming the next year, too.

The trick is to snip off the spent blooms where the leaves join the stem just above where the new buds are forming. Don’t prune heavily and never after Memorial Day; if you do, you won’t have flowers the next spring.

Lilacs don’t need much fertilizer. Give them a little bone meal while they’re dormant in winter. They need at least six hours a day of sun and good air circulation. (When crowded, they can develop powdery mildew.) In Sacramento, they prefer morning sun and some afternoon shade; otherwise, they can get sunburned.

Bee on a lilac blossom
Bees enjoy lilacs, too.
Lilacs demand good drainage and soil on the slightly acidic side. Water-wise, they like deep irrigation once a week or twice a month, depending on the heat. They don’t like life next to a lawn; that’s when they tend to get over-watered. Constant year-round irrigation also keeps lilacs from entering dormancy; they need that winter sleep to develop their blooms.

Butterflies and beneficial insects love lilacs. Expect to see swallowtails enjoying this spring bloom.

Lilacs also require patience. After transplanting, a new bush may not bloom for three years – or more. But once established and comfortably chilly, it will start flowering relatively reliably for decades to come.

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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth