Sacramento Digs Gardening logo
Sacramento Digs Gardening Article
Your resource for Sacramento-area gardening news, tips and events

Articles Recipe Index Keyword Index Calendar Twitter Facebook Instagram About Us Contact Us

Be on the lookout for Dr. Huey

Ubiquitous rose shows up in spring and aims to take over


Dark red rose blossom
Dr. Huey usually is grown for rootstock. If it shoots up canes and is allowed to form buds, it blooms just once a year. (Photos: Debbie Arrington)





Is Dr. Huey in your garden?

The most common rose in bloom in Sacramento right now is a little wine-red semi-double flower that almost no one planted on purpose. Inadvertently, it’s probably the most commonly grown rose in the United States.

Why? Because Dr. Huey won’t stay buried, even though it’s grown almost exclusively for its roots.

In spring, Dr. Huey can create the illusion of two different roses blooming on the same bush; a pink or other familiar hybrid rose on top, then this small velvety red rose near the bush’s base or at the end of long smooth canes. Dr. Huey is also responsible when, for example, an all-yellow bush turns all red.

Its tenacity is why Dr. Huey is at the base of countless hybrid roses (especially hybrid teas, floribundas and grandifloras). Dr. Huey has been California’s go-to rootstock for roses for generations.

Dr. Huey wasn’t bred for this job. Created in 1914 and introduced commercially in 1920, it’s a hybrid Wichurana rambler; its flexible and fast-growing canes make it ideal for arbors, trellises, fences or other climbing rose roles. (Its drawbacks: Dr. Huey blooms only once a year and it’s prone to fungal disease.)

Powdery mildew on Dr. Huey leaves
These Dr. Huey leaves show signs of powdery mildew.


Dr. Huey was among more than 1,200 varieties bred by George C. Thomas Jr., a golf course architect and rose hybridizer. Among Thomas’ golf courses are several Los Angeles landmarks including Riviera Country Club and Bel-Air Country Club. With partner William Bell, Thomas also designed the Stanford University Golf Course.

Rose-wise, Thomas was looking for something that could grow vigorously in his hometown of Philadelphia as well as his adopted state of California, where he designed more than 20 golf courses.

Dr. Huey was something that could cover a fence with velvety red blooms, and not that many prickles.

That lack of thorns as well as hardy roots made Dr. Huey a favorite with California’s commercial rose growers. They grow Dr. Huey by the thousands, just for its roots.

Rootstock is an important part of the rose business. Hybrid roses are usually grafted, speeding up the process of producing a mature, blooming (and marketable) bush by two or three years. In rose grafting, the plant above ground is not the same variety as the plant below ground.

How do you graft a rose? Rose growers have been following this basic procedure since the 1800s.

A rootstock rose plant (in this case, Dr. Huey) is grown to maturity. T-shaped cuts are made in the bark of its main stem and cuttings (or “bud wood”) of the desired rose variety are inserted. The “bud union” is wrapped securely with flexible tape and allowed to heal. The cuttings eventually take hold and grow. At that point, the branches of the rootstock plant are removed, leaving only the grafted bud wood to grow. That creates the grafted bush – two roses in one.

So many Dr. Huey plants were grown in Kern County (the heart of California’s rose industry), Dr. Huey also has been nicknamed the “Shafter rose” (after that small farm town).

Dr. Huey’s smooth bark and vigorous roots make it ideal for grafting and its supporting role. As a rambler, its roots naturally grow deep, giving the bush support and drought tolerance.

Except Dr. Huey craves the light of day. Those strong roots keep pushing out new green canes that fight the grafted bush above for nutrients and space. If not cut out, those canes can strangle the grafted variety. (In such battles, Dr. Huey always wins.)

Another drawback, Dr. Huey’s foliage is prone to fungal disease, especially powdery mildew, blackspot and rust. Those canes can transmit those fungal diseases to the grafted bush (as well as other roses and plants), causing foliage to drop off.

If left alone in the garden, Dr. Huey will lose all its leaves to fungal disease before summer’s end, looking like a bramble of long naked canes.

Right now, Dr. Huey may look cute. But remember, this rose is best kept out of sight.

Comments

0 comments have been posted.

Newsletter Subscription

Sacramento Digs Gardening to your inbox.

Local News

Ad for California Local

Taste Winter! E-cookbook

Lemon coconut pancakes

Find our winter recipes here!

Garden checklist for week of March 8

During this sunny week, get your garden set up for a beautiful spring:

* Fertilize roses, annual flowers and berries as spring growth begins to appear.

* Pull weeds now! Don’t let them get started. Take a hoe and whack them as soon as they sprout.

* Prepare vegetable beds. Spade in compost and other amendments.

* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs after bloom.

* Feed camellias at the end of their bloom cycle. Pick up browned and fallen flowers to help corral blossom blight.

* Feed citrus trees, which are now in bloom and setting fruit. To prevent sunburn and borer problems on young trees, paint the exposed portion of the trunk with diluted white latex (water-based) interior paint. Dilute the paint with an equal amount of cold water before application.

* Feed roses with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium available in that product).

* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs and trees after they bloom. Try using well-composted manure, spread 1-inch thick under the tree. This serves as both fertilizer and mulch, retaining moisture while cutting down on weeds.

* Cut back and fertilize perennial herbs to encourage new growth.

* In the vegetable garden, transplant lettuce and cole family plants, such as broccoli, collards and kale.

* Seed chard and beets directly into the ground. (Soak beet seeds first for better germination.)

* Plant summer bulbs, including gladiolus, tuberous begonias and callas. Also plant dahlia tubers.

* Shop for perennials. Many varieties are available in local nurseries and at plant events. They can be transplanted now while the weather remains relatively cool.

* Seed and renovate the lawn (if you still have one). Feed cool-season grasses such as bent, blue, rye and fescue with a slow-release fertilizer. Check the irrigation system and perform maintenance. Make sure sprinkler heads are turned toward the lawn, not the sidewalk.

Contact Us

Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event.  sacdigsgardening@gmail.com

Taste Spring! E-cookbook

Strawberries

Find our spring recipes here!

Taste Summer! E-cookbook

square-tomatoes-plate.jpg

Find our summer recipes here!

Taste Fall! E-cookbook

Muffins and pumpkin

Find our fall recipes here!

Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth