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Put that blazing sun to work

Now's the best time for soil solarization

Raised bed covered with plastic
Here's my raised bed, all ready for the sun to do its work.
(Photos: Kathy Morrison)

There's at least one good thing about our hot, no-rain summers: We can easily put the sun to work for us in the garden, solarizing our soil.

Why solarize? It's a natural way to control pests, pathogens and weeds.

My first 4-by-8-foot raised bed was built 20 years ago on the south side of our small backyard. This replacement bed, constructed with better lumber, is 18 or 19 years old. It was my tomato-growing workhorse site for a few years, until I joined my local community garden and moved tomato production there.

Since then the raised bed has had an erratic production history. Beans did well for awhile, and peppers two years. Onions went in at least one year. I most recently had strawberry plants there, but they were not happy and died more often than not. The survivors were moved to grow bags, where they are doing well.

Since I didn't have to plant anything in the home raised bed this year, I decided to try solarizing it to kill off any lingering pathogens (such as wilts), weed seeds or nematodes. We had an overgrown podocarpus tree nearby removed earlier this year, clearing the way for an intense solarization experience.

The soil needs to be soaked first for
solarization to work. Those remaining
podocarpus leaves also have to go.

The solarizing process is easy, for raised beds or in-ground planting areas:

-- Remove any debris from the site and rake it flat.

-- Water it well, down at least 12 inches.

-- Dig trenches along the edges where the plastic will be anchored.

-- Cover tightly with plastic; anchor the plastic with soil (and rocks, in my case).

-- Wait four to six weeks (or more) for the sun to do its work.

-- Uncover and plant. (Though I likely will do a soil test before I put any plants in.)

The plastic sheet I used is 1.5 mils thick, which is within the recommended range for durability. It's not perfectly clear, but clear enough. Black or colored plastic is not recommended. Rolls of clear plastic can be found at most home improvement stores -- look in the paint section.

My raised bed's been set up for a week now. The soil temperature's already up to 98 degrees and the underside of the plastic shows many nice bubbles.

I'll report back later in the summer on my progress. Meanwhile, here's a great guide to solarization from the UC Integrated Pest Management program, if you want to try it. If a video is more useful to you, the Sacramento master gardeners filmed a solarization guide for the 2020 Virtual Harvest Day; see it here .








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Garden checklist for week of June 14

We'll be back to normal temperatures for mid-June (about 86 degrees) by Thursday. In the meanwhile:

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.

* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.

* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.

* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don't let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes. There’s still time to plant melons, pumpkins and squash from seed.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, bidens, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

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Taste Winter! E-cookbook

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth