Record heat could fry plants
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| Thin frost cloth is one solution to temporary shade for your tomatoes or other vegetables during a heat spike. (Photo: Kathy Morrison) |
Better find some shade. We may be heading into the hottest weekend in Sacramento history.
According to the National Weather Service, a heat dome – a phenomenon that recently cooked the Pacific Northwest – has clamped down over California’s Central Valley, rapidly ratcheting up our high temperatures to record levels.
The weekend forecast calls for two days above 110 degrees – possibly hitting 115 on Saturday. That’s more than 20 degrees above normal for early July.
That also would tie or break the record for Sacramento’s hottest day ever. Downtown Sacramento’s official all-time record is 114 degrees, set in July 1925. Executive Airport, Sacramento’s other official weather monitoring point, recorded 115 degrees in June 1961, says the weather service.
In more than 150 years of temperature watching, Sacramento has had only one weekend with back-to-back days of 110 degrees or higher. According to The Sacramento Bee, that was last summer – Aug. 15 (111 degrees) and Aug . 16 (112), 2020.
Overnight lows will not give much relief. Instead of dipping down into the low 60s or 50s, nighttime temperatures will remain mostly in the 80s, cooling off to 70s after midnight.
It’s not until Tuesday when weather patterns return to normal and days are just plain hot instead of broiling. Tuesday’s forecast calls for 94 degrees and a refreshing low of 59 degrees.
What does that mean for your garden? The weather service calls this extreme heat “dangerous,” and it can be catastrophic for under-hydrated plants as well as people or pets.
Get out in the early morning to handle any garden tasks. No. 1 on your list: Water.
First, check your soil moisture. Some parts of your landscape may be coping just fine and don’t need the extra hydration. Use a moisture meter or take a trowel and just look, digging down about 6 inches. Or just try to push a long screwdriver into the dirt. If the soil is hard and dry, it needs water – now! Deep-water trees, shrubs and perennials as well as vegetables.
When watering from a hose, run a little water out of the hose first (into a bucket if you prefer) before turning it on your plants to avoid scalding their foliage. This is especially important for watering in the late afternoon or evening. Water inside the hose itself can be more than 140 degrees on triple-digit days. (Water in the bucket can be used after it cools.)
Some plants show they’re thirsty; they wilt. The larger the leaves, the more they wilt. Afternoon wilt is normal for many squash or melons, but if they’re still wilted in the morning – they need water.
In the ornamental garden, hydrangeas and hardy hibiscus tend to be most in need. Make sure they're mulched as well as watered.
Think twice before deep irrigating fruit trees heavy with ripening peaches or other summer fruit. Too much water may get sucked up into that ripening fruit and may break branches or even split the tree.
Instead, consider harvesting at least some of the fruit to take strain off the tree. Otherwise, the tree may just drop its crop.
Speaking of which, pick up any dropped fruit; it will quickly rot in this heat.
Keep an eye on container plants. Any potted plant will need more water, perhaps daily. Again, check the soil first.
If you haven’t already, elevate potted plants off hot concrete, asphalt or other hardscape. Place a piece of thick cardboard or wood under the pot to insulate it from the hot surface underneath. If possible, move sensitive plants into shadier areas.
Make some (temporary) shade for peppers, tomatoes, eggplants and other ripening vegetables. They can get sunburned quickly. Keep these vegetables (plus squash, melons, pumpkins, etc.) evenly hydrated to avoid blossom end rot.
Don’t fertilize when it’s hot; it can do more harm than good.
One good thing about this heat: The grass doesn’t grow. Water the lawn in the morning (twice a week), but put off mowing. Another plus to delayed mowing: Longer grass blades shade their roots and help them cope with intense heat (and less water).
In weather like this, even grass appreciates some shade.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
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Garden checklist for week of April 19
After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!
* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.
* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.
* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.
* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.
* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.
* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.
* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.
* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth