Waterlogged soil can lead to iron deficiency
This azalea shows signs of chlorosis in its new growth. Waterlogged soil likely kept the plant from accessing iron in the soil. (Photos: Debbie Arrington) |
Are your azaleas looking a little peaked? It may not be a lack of nutrients, but too much water.
Cindy Nalepa-Nelson, an observant longtime gardener, noticed yellowish growth on azaleas in her Land Park garden. In a walk around her neighborhood, she spotted several other examples of azaleas that were showing telltale signs of chlorosis, or yellowing of normally green leaves.
Usually, this yellowing is a sign of iron deficiency. But that doesn’t mean there’s not enough iron in the soil. Due to soil conditions, the plant’s roots couldn’t access that iron when the bush needed it for green, chlorophyll-packed leaves.
Cindy wondered if the yellow leaves could be linked to recent rain, particularly December’s deluge. According to UC Cooperative Extension master gardeners, the heavy rain likely did play a role. But it didn’t leach out the iron; it waterlogged the soil.
“Azaleas, citrus, gardenias, rhododendrons, and other plants that are adapted to acidic soil are especially prone to iron deficiency when soil pH is above about 7.5 (alkaline),” say the master gardeners. “Iron deficiency is also common when soils are cool, high in calcium, poorly drained, or waterlogged.”
Here's another azalea with chlorosis. Notice the green veins
in the yellowish leaves.
|
Iron deficiencies tend to be more common in clay soils; the iron becomes “locked” in the soil and unavailable for plant roots.
Other signs of iron deficiency: Stunted or malformed new growth; mottled yellow leaves with green veins; and bud or fruit drop. Leaves may develop brown margins, too.
Because azaleas are shooting out new growth now, those yellowish leaves are more noticeable.
To remedy the problem, aerate the soil. Poke holes to encourage drainage. Add compost or other organic matter to help drainage as well as the soil’s acidity.
Then go ahead and feed those yellowish azaleas with chelated iron, a form of this nutrient that’s easily and quickly absorbed by plants – even in clay soils. Chelated iron is available at nurseries and home centers.
For more about iron deficiency in plants, check out these UC integrated pest management plant notes: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISORDERS/irondeficiency.html.
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Garden Checklist for week of Dec. 8
Make the most of dry weather while we have it this week. Rain is returning.
* Rake leaves away from storm drains and gutters. Recycle those leaves as mulch or add to compost.
* It’s not too late to plant something. Seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.
* Trees and shrubs can be planted now, especially bare-root varieties such as fruit trees or rose bushes. This gives them plenty of time for root development before spring growth. They also benefit from winter rains.
* Plant bare-root berries, kiwifruit, grapes, artichokes, horseradish and rhubarb.
* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.
* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.
* Brighten the holidays with winter bloomers such as poinsettias, amaryllis, calendulas, Iceland poppies, pansies and primroses.
* Keep poinsettias in a sunny, warm location; bring them inside at night or if there’s rain.
* Plant garlic and onions.
* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while they’re dormant.
* Clean and sharpen garden tools before storing for the winter.
* Mulch, water and cover tender plants to protect them during threat of frost. Succulent plants are at particular risk if temperatures drop below freezing. Make sure to remove coverings during the day.
* Rake and remove dead leaves and stems from dormant perennials.