Waterlogged soil can lead to iron deficiency
|This azalea shows signs of chlorosis in its new growth. Waterlogged soil likely kept the plant from accessing iron in the soil. (Photos: Debbie Arrington)|
Are your azaleas looking a little peaked? It may not be a lack of nutrients, but too much water.
Cindy Nalepa-Nelson, an observant longtime gardener, noticed yellowish growth on azaleas in her Land Park garden. In a walk around her neighborhood, she spotted several other examples of azaleas that were showing telltale signs of chlorosis, or yellowing of normally green leaves.
Usually, this yellowing is a sign of iron deficiency. But that doesn’t mean there’s not enough iron in the soil. Due to soil conditions, the plant’s roots couldn’t access that iron when the bush needed it for green, chlorophyll-packed leaves.
Cindy wondered if the yellow leaves could be linked to recent rain, particularly December’s deluge. According to UC Cooperative Extension master gardeners, the heavy rain likely did play a role. But it didn’t leach out the iron; it waterlogged the soil.
“Azaleas, citrus, gardenias, rhododendrons, and other plants that are adapted to acidic soil are especially prone to iron deficiency when soil pH is above about 7.5 (alkaline),” say the master gardeners. “Iron deficiency is also common when soils are cool, high in calcium, poorly drained, or waterlogged.”
Here's another azalea with chlorosis. Notice the green veins
in the yellowish leaves.
Iron deficiencies tend to be more common in clay soils; the iron becomes “locked” in the soil and unavailable for plant roots.
Other signs of iron deficiency: Stunted or malformed new growth; mottled yellow leaves with green veins; and bud or fruit drop. Leaves may develop brown margins, too.
Because azaleas are shooting out new growth now, those yellowish leaves are more noticeable.
To remedy the problem, aerate the soil. Poke holes to encourage drainage. Add compost or other organic matter to help drainage as well as the soil’s acidity.
Then go ahead and feed those yellowish azaleas with chelated iron, a form of this nutrient that’s easily and quickly absorbed by plants – even in clay soils. Chelated iron is available at nurseries and home centers.
For more about iron deficiency in plants, check out these UC integrated pest management plant notes: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISORDERS/irondeficiency.html.
Comments0 comments have been posted.
Sacramento Digs Gardening to your inbox.
Dig In: Garden checklist for week of Sept. 25
This week's warm break will revive summer crops such as peppers and tomatoes that may still be trying to produce fruit. Pumpkins and winter squash will add weight rapidly.
Be on the lookout for powdery mildew and other fungal diseases that may be enjoying this combination of warm air and moist soil.
* Late September is ideal for sowing a new lawn or re-seeding bare spots.
* Compost annuals and vegetable crops that have finished producing.
* Cultivate and add compost to the soil to replenish its nutrients for fall and winter vegetables and flowers.
* Plant for fall now. The warm soil will get cool-season veggies and flowers off to a fast start.
* Plant onions, lettuce, peas, radishes, turnips, beets, carrots, bok choy, spinach and potatoes directly into the vegetable beds.
* Transplant lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower.
* Sow seeds of California poppies, clarkia and African daisies.
* Transplant cool-weather annuals such as pansies, violas, fairy primroses, calendulas, stocks and snapdragons.
* Divide and replant bulbs, rhizomes and perennials.
* Dig up and divide daylilies as they complete their bloom cycle.
* Divide and transplant peonies that have become overcrowded. Replant with "eyes" about an inch below the soil surface.
Sites We Like
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. email@example.com