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Is it too early to plant tomatoes?

Soil temperature is key to transplant success

Tomato seedlings
Just because they're in the nurseries doesn't mean it's time to plant tomatoes.
These likely were greenhouse-grown, meaning they really need ideal (warm)
soil conditions to get growing. (Photo: Kathy Morrison)

“Can I plant tomatoes now?”

Record warm days have prompted that thought among many Sacramento-area gardeners. Super Bowl Sunday proved to be the hottest February day ever recorded in Sacramento – 78 degrees.

Following several springlike days in the 70s, plants (and people) are responding to this warmth as if it’s April, not mid February. Spring flowers are quickly coming into bloom. Some local nurseries have already started putting out tomato seedlings for sale.

But that doesn’t mean it’s time to transplant those baby tomato plants outside – into the cold, hard ground. Because that soil is still mighty chilly.

According to the UC Davis weather and climate report, soil temperature was still only 51 degrees at its campus weather station Sunday. That’s typical for late winter/early spring. Afternoon air may be warm, but overnight temperatures are still dipping down into the 40s.

Tomatoes need warm soil to grow, develop strong roots and thrive. Transplant a tomato seedling into cold soil, it will just sit there and sulk (or worse).

Ideally, tomatoes and other summer crops such as peppers, squash and eggplant need soil temperatures above 60 degrees before transplanting. Tomatoes prefer soil temperatures even warmer. Oregon State University researchers found that soil temperatures in the 65- to 70-degree range were the sweet spot for tomato transplanting.

When will we see soil temperatures that warm? Most likely April, say the weather forecasters. April also is Sacramento’s traditional tomato transplanting time.

The best way to know for sure in your own garden is to use a soil thermometer. Available at nurseries, this simple device can check soil temperature at a glance; just stick it in the ground. (It’s a lot like checking the temperature of a roast in the oven with a meat thermometer.)

Soil in raised beds warms faster than soil in level ground. The same goes for soil that gets reflected heat from concrete walks or buildings. Wherever, our soil is still not going to reach 60 degrees for at least four to six weeks, say soil experts.

A lot of weather can happen between now and April. Sacramento’s historical frost date – the last day with a threat of freezing overnight temperatures – is March 23. Baby tomato plants also don’t cope well with heavy rain. A March miracle with 3 or more inches of rain would definitely help our water outlook, but could cause any early transplants to damp off in cool, wet soil.

So, wait on the tomatoes for now, and concentrate on leafy greens instead. Your salad garden may not have extra-early Early Girls, but there’s still time to plant more lettuce.

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Garden checklist for week of June 14

We'll be back to normal temperatures for mid-June (about 86 degrees) by Thursday. In the meanwhile:

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.

* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.

* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.

* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don't let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes. There’s still time to plant melons, pumpkins and squash from seed.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, bidens, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth